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08 October Wine Tasting Notes
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Wine Tasting Notes
home page.
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Tastings in
London Home |
Restaurant Tastings |
The
Sampler |
Bruce next to
the Weinbach vineyard.
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Sofia & Bruce
with wines tasted.
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Wineries Visited in
France & Germany |
Hugel & Fils, Riquewihr, France
A family-owned business that has been producing wine since 1639, it is
currently managed by Etienne Hugel, the 12th generation to
manage this firm. It was Etienne who tasted with us.
2007 Gentil - This blended wine from Alsace's 4 noble
grapes -- Riesling, Pinot Gris, Gewürztraminer and Muscat -- is Hugel's
entry-level wine and widely available in our market. Very approachable
and flavorful.
2007 Riesling - Like most Alsatian Rieslings this is
soft and dry.
2005 Pinot Gris, Traditional - Rich, balanced flavors
with a fine finish.
2004 Pinot Gris, Jubilee - Richer than the Traditional
with more concentrated flavors.
2004 Riesling, Jubilee - Fruity on the nose with a
slight mineral edge.
2000 Riesling, Selection de Grains Nobles - The best of
the Hugel wines tasted, with deep flavors and a balanced sweetness.
All of the Hugel wines
are produced from their own vineyards or vineyards under long-term
contracts. Therefore, they have full control of the vineyards that are the
source of their 110,000 cases. The term Traditional is used to
differentiate wines produced from a stricter selection of grapes. Jubilee
wines are 100% estate grown and the Selection de Grains Nobles are very
late-harvest wines with a considerable amount of sweetness.
Pierre Sparr et Ses Fils, Sigolsheim,
France
Sparr is a family-run wine business established in 1680
and continuously run by family members. The brothers Pierre and Bernard
are currently managing the company's affairs.
2006
Riesling Reserve - Refreshing with a very light sweetness and
minerality.
2006 Pinot Gris
Reserve - Refined flavors with a lingering finish.
2004 Pinot
Gris, Mambourg Grand Cru - The Mambourg vineyard is considered
a Grand Cru for its exceptional fruit and is located just behind the
winery. It has a bold flavor, plenty of legs and elegant finish.
2004
Gewürztraminer, Mambourg Grand Cru -
One of the spiciest Alsatian
Gewürztraminers
I've had, yet it is not overly aggressive.
2005
Gewürztraminer, Vendages Tardives -
This late-harvest wine had a rich sweetness and would make an
outstanding dessert wine.
F.E.Trimbach,
Ribeauville, France
This well-known firm was
started in 1626 and has remained in family hands ever since. With a
production of 1.3 million bottles, 25% of which are shipped to the United
States, this is one of the larger firms producing quality wines. There is
a sign behind the tasting bar that reads "Say no to oak; Help put
fruit back in wine." I could not agree more, which is why I like
Alsatian wine so much.
2006 Pinot Blanc -
With good fruit and light flavors this is a perfect starter.
2006 Riesling - A very
fruit-driven wine with light flavors, yet balanced.
2006 Riesling Reserve -
Made with grapes from 45-year-old vines, it is balanced with mild
acidity and a finish that lingers.
2004 Riesling, Cuvée
Frederic Emile - One of my favorite wines, this one needs some
more time in the bottle. 2003 Cuvée
M, Riesling (sold in France only) - Similar to the 2006
Riesling, but with some minerality.
2003 Pinot Noir - Flowery
nose and brilliant color, but the flavors are weak.
2001 Pinot Gris Reserve
Personnelle - The Personnelle label is only produced in special
vintages with the grapes chosen from the best vineyards. This soft,
balanced wine is very delicate with a hint of sweetness.
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Domaine
Weinbach, Kayersberg,
France
A relatively
young producer, it is also one of the top producers in all of France.
Founded in 1898 by the Faller brothers, but based on vineyards established
in 1612 by Capuchin monks, this small property produces only estate-grown
wines from about 69 acres of the best vineyards in Alsace. They can
usually produce only 13,000 cases. The wine is expensive and rare, but
each bottle is as good as any Alsace can produce. The property is
currently run by Colette Faller and her two daughters, Laurence and
Catherine. It was Catherine who hosted our tasting. Laurence is the
winemaker.
2007 Muscat Reserve -
A balanced wine with light sweetness and minerality.
2007 Riesling Schlossberg
- In 1975 the Schlossberg vineyard was declared to be a Grand Cru
vineyard. This delicate Riesling had great fruit flavors and a hint of
minerals. 2007 Riesling
Schlossberg, Cuvée
St. Catherine - With this wine we toasted our host Catherine.
This is a very dry Riesling with deep rich fruit.
2007 Riesling Schlossberg, Cuvée
St. Catherine "L'inedit" - Selected from the best of the
vineyard with half being a late harvest, this sweet yet balanced wine
had a lingering finish and was elegantly subtle.
2006 Pinot Gris, Cuvée St.
Catherine - Gentle and smooth with a lingering finish, this is
how a Pinot Gris should taste.
2006 Pinot Gris Altenbourg - With high residual sugar this
sweet, balanced wine was the perfect lead into the great
Gewürztraminers.
2006
Gewürztraminer,
Cuvée
Laurence
- Possibly the finest Gewürztraminer I've ever had came from Weinbach
some years ago, so this was the beginning of a special part of the
tasting. With a subtle nose the full spice flavors were in evidence.
2004
Gewürztraminer,
Mambourg,
Cuvée
Laurence
- Age only improves these wines. Rich, sweet and balanced, this is a
wine to age longer and remember even longer.
2004 Riesling Schlossberg, Vendage Tardive - What legs! The
richness of this wine could be seen but the taste showed off the
wonderful flavors.
2005
Gewürztraminer,
Furstentum, Vendage Tardive - Late-harvest
Gewürztraminer is as good as it gets. Rich sweetness with soft spices -
we could have had this wine all afternoon!
2002 Pinot Gris Altenbourg,
Selections de Grains Nobles - What a conclusion to one of the
finest tastings I've ever had. Loaded with residual sugar this late,
late harvest wine is delicate and powerful at the same time. How do they
do it?
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Weingut Wwe. Dr. H
Thanisch, Bernkastel-Kues,
Germany
The Thanisch family founded this winery in
1636 and has passed it down generation after generation. The Wwe. at the
beginning of their name, means widow in German, and the business has been
run by women for 4 generations since the death of Dr. Thanisch, the
current owner's grandfather. Sofia Thanisch owns about 14 acres of
vineyards and has long-term contracts on a wide variety of other vineyards
throughout the Mosel region. All are planted only with the great Riesling
grape. I chose to visit this winery because I wanted to learn more about
the great Doctor vineyards. We tasted with Sofia Thanisch.
2007 Riesling, Spätlese Trocken
- Yes, Spatlese and dry. This was a fascinating wine which was sweet,
but dry at the same time. You always learn something new at a winery.
2007 Riesling - Their
basic white wine which was soft and gentle.
2007 Riesling, Badstube, Kabinett - The Badstube
vineyard surrounds the Doctor vineyard and produces a sweet yet delicate
wine at 9.0% alcohol! 2007 Riesling, Doctor, Kabinett
- Blended with some Spatlese to
add to the sweetness of the beginning level of
pradikit wine.
2007 Riesling,
Doctor,
Spätlese
- Sweeter and even more balanced with acidity.
2004 Riesling, Doctor,
Spätlese
- Now we are getting into the more
interesting aged wines. With mineral notes along with the sweetness, the
alcohol level at 7.5% makes a terrific wine.
2006 Riesling, Doctor,
Spätlese
- Sweetness and a concentrated finish with years left to age.
2001 Riesling, Doctor, Auslese - Is it the age or the
vintage that makes this so special? A slight mineral taste, but
outstanding.
1991 Riesling, Doctor, Auslese - Vibrant after 16 years
with an understated flavor and delightful sweetness.
2006
Riesling, Badstube, Beerenauslese - The perfume aroma reached
us before the glass was in hand. Rich flavors were delightful, and it
was worth just looking at the glass for the color of the wine and the
legs.
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The following wines were tasted at my son's home
in London: |
Louis Jadot, 2003 Meursault, Burgundy TMV, 2006 Syrah, Swartland, South Africa Domaine Saint Andres de Figuear, 2005 Côte
de Provence At our "Welcome to London
dinner" my son and daughter-in-law first opened the Meursault, a family
favorite, which was very intense. The TMV is partially owned by George
Austin, a friend of my son's. This soft, lightly spiced wine was perfect
with dinner. As a finale, and to have an opportunity to get caught up on
what he was doing, we sat up late and had the
Côte
de Provence. This is one of his current
favorites and is a blend of Mourvedre, Grenache and Cinsault. Relatively
light considering the blend, it offers a pleasant sipping wine at the end
of the evening. La
Jota, 1992 Cabernet Sauvignon, Howell Mountain It's nice to have friends that keep good wine and are willing to
share it, but it is even better when they are in London and bring a fine
bottle of wine for dinner all the way from Winston-Salem. I haven't had a
La Jota in several years and never one this old, but it has stood the test
of time. With rich flavors subtly presented, this was brought to share
with the sommelier at the Greyhound Restaurant, but since the sommalier
wasn't working that night, we saved it for our dinner at my son's home.
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Wine Tastings in Restaurant |
Frankfurter Hof Hotel,
The French Restaurant, Frankfurt, Germany When I was in the service and stationed near Frankfurt, this
old-line hotel was far beyond my budget, so this was my chance and it was
worth waiting for. I don't often let a sommelier pick the wines for the
evening, but this time I did allow him to suggest wines and they were very
good.
Schloss Reinhartshausen, Sekt,
Rheingau Yes, I had picked a sekt from the wine list when the sommelier
suggested this one at the same price; it was an outstanding wine. This
is one of the best producers on the Rhine River and I was not aware that
they made sparkling wines. The sekt was dry and flavorful and just what
we wanted on our first night on the continent.
Leitz, 2002 Riesling,
Spätlese,
Rheingau Since we would be driving to Alsace the next day then staying on the
Mosel, I was interested in having a Rhine wine with dinner, but all of
the Rhine wines on the list were Trocken (dry) and I didn't come to
Germany for dry wines. I asked the sommelier if he had any that were
sweeter and he said, "let me think, yes I have something interesting." I
had not heard of Leitz before, but it turned out to be wonderful. With 6
years of age and from a great vintage, it had a delicious sweetness yet
was balanced with acidity so that it was perfect with our dinner. At
8.5% alcohol it was actually refreshing.
Weingut Fritz
Rothenbach, 2006 Huxelrebe, Oestricher Klosterberg Beernauslese,
Rheingau
Once again I asked the
sommelier to pick a dessert wine for us and he brought three to choose
from. I picked the Huxelrebe since it was a grape I've heard of but
never had. The BA wine was perfect for a late-harvest wine with light
fruit and very delicate flavors. The sweetness was rich yet balanced.
What a finish to a wonderful dinner.
Restaurant
Bartholdi, Colmar, France
On the recommendation of
Catherine Faller of Domaine Weinbach, we went to this restaurant for
dinner after our visit to her vineyard. Named after the designer of the
Statue of Liberty who was born in Colmar, it was as pleasant as she
described. I had the Choucroute Garni and we sat in their courtyard under
grape vines for our dinner.
Domaine Weinbach, 2002
Riesling, Schlossberg Since we had such a wonderful tasting at the Domaine it seemed
appropriate to have this Riesling with dinner. Riesling was the best
wine to go with my sauerkraut dinner since it is generally used in the
cooking (but probably not a Weinbach). It was great to have a whole
bottle of Weinbach wine after sampling so many of her wines that
afternoon.
The Greyhound, London (see
Restaurant Reviews) While the sommelier, Mark van der Goot, was not at the restaurant
the night our friends brought the La Jota, we did dine there another
evening, but unfortunately he was off again. While we had several wines at
the Greyhound, one was so special it really stands alone.
Nicolas Joly, 2002 Savennieres,
Coulée de Serrant, Loire Valley This is one of the world's best wines and the finest example of
a Chenin Blanc. I had never had this wine before and when I saw it on
the list it was a must-have. The color was deep golden, and the body was
viscous like a dessert wine but very dry. Layers of flavors and
complexity were present making this a great wine by itself, but even
better with food. Isn't it nice to be at a good restaurant with creative
wine lists?
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Numero Uno,139 Northcote Road,
London
This neighborhood, upscale
restaurant, offers really good Italian food with a diverse wine list. We
visited the Osteria Antica Bologna restaurant several times, but it
doesn't have a very impressive wine list by comparison. This was our
farewell dinner and unfortunately took place on the day that it was
announced that Lehman Brothers was closing (my son is an investment banker
and knows many Lehman employees). We started with a simple Greco di Tufo, from
southern Italy, which was very pleasant. Then my son offered to buy a
bottle of wine, and I could not say no.
Antinori, 2005 Tignanello,
Tuscany, IGT This blend of Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon (usually 80-20)
is one of Antinori's top wines and deservedly so. The wine offered both
deep powerful flavors with a softness that was just incredible. After
two weeks of wining in Europe, this was a great way to end the trip.
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The Sampler, 266 Upper
Street, London |
One other experience during the trip was my birthday gift from my
son. He took me to a retail shop called The Sampler for a
wine tasting. In addition to having a fine selection of wines for sale,
they have about 80 wines housed in a cabinet with nitrogen to preserve the
wine. The cabinet has machines that accept a house credit card which acts
like a debit card, and as you select a taste of wine, it deducts the
amount from your balance. Three different sized tastes are offered. These
were the wines I sampled:
- Chateau du Val de Merce, 2007 Petit Chablis
- Wild Earth, 2008 Riesling, Central Otage
- Sokol Blosser, "Meditranx" Pinot Noir, Oregon
- Castello Y'Gay, 1998 Grand Reserva, Rioja
- Chave, 2001 Hermitage, Rhone Valley
- Gaja, 1988 Barolo, Spress (WOW!
Tasted twice because this was the best wine of the day)
- Dr. Loosen, 1998 Urziger Wurzgarthen, Auslese,
Mosel
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