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September 08 |
Cave de Saumur, 2006 Saumur,
Reserve des Vignerons, Loire Valley $10.
It is always a special treat to get a good bottle of wine
at a value price. Since Chenin Blanc is currently one of my favorite
grape varieties, I'm on the lookout for Loire wines and this is
where this grape shines. There is a tartness to the wine which makes
it a good summer wine, plus it's compatible with a wide variety of
foods.
1919, 2006 Malbec, Mendoza $12.
I first tasted this wine at the 6th
and Vine Restaurant in Winston-Salem. That same day I found a bottle
at the Wine Merchants Gourmet at a very attractive price. Malbec is
one of the new darlings of the wine world and the best grape growing
in Argentina. This is a soft wine ready for drinking now through
2010.The label states that the vines are 30 or more years old, so it
means the vintner has done a excellent job in keeping it relatively
light.
Hartford Court, 2006 Stone Côte
Vineyard, Sonoma
Louis Latour, 2006 Meursault, Burgundy
Chateau Pavie, 2004 La Rosee, Bordeaux
Louis Latour, 2005 Santemay, Burgundy
Chateau La Dominique,1989 St. Emilion Grand Cru Classe (magnum)
Domaine des Baumard, 2002 Quarts de Chaume, Loire Valley
Getting together with wine friends is always exciting as
they will share some of their favorites, and I open my cellar to
match. The Hartford Court was opened in the afternoon and I must say
I didn't care for it (even though it's priced at $57.) It was
brought to my home that evening, having been opened about six hours
and offered to me blind. I thought it was terrific and guessed it
was a white Burgundy. Decanting white wine will work miracles! The
Meursault was soft and didn't have typical flavors. I have several
bottles of this wine and will review it again in a year or so as I
suspect it needs more ageing. We don't see classified-growth
Bordeaux chateaus producing Rosés very often, but many of them do,
and they can be really good with intense flavors. The Santenay
fooled me also as a blind tasting since I reviewed the wine in my
May 2008 notes. It was much richer than I expected for a Pinot Noir.
I purchased the St. Emilion in Bordeaux in 1994 and have cellared it
since. This was the right time to open a great year that has rested
for 19 years. Finally, the dessert wine from the Loire Valley which
is the sweet version of Chenin Blanc, was fruity and lively and
could age for at least 5 more years -- maybe ten.
Pirosmani, 2004 Saperavi, Alazani
Valey, Georgia
When visiting friends' homes I often find them overly concerned
about what wines to serve. So I tell them that frankly I enjoy
well-made or interesting wines. This wine hit a home run. Made in
Soviet Georgia, much in the news these days, it uses the Saperavi
grape which is new to me, and it was a grand success. The label
tells us, in that part in English and not Cyrillic, that the wine
was made in the traditional method of fermenting in a clay jug that
is buried in the ground. I've had Russian wines before, but this was
the best. It tasted like a table wine from the Oporto region of
Portugal with deep rich flavors, almost port-like. This is well
worth seeking out, and I understand they also make a white wine.
J. Lidal-Fleury, 2005
Côtes-du-Ventoux, Rhone Valley $13.
The producer is well known, but the region, in the southern
part of the Rhone Valley just east of Chateauneuf-du-Pape, gets
little exposure here. The principal grape is Grenache, but I expect
some Syrah has been added. Therefore it shows some backbone and
spice, but has a gentle side. This is a good value wine.
Saint Cosme, 2006 Côtes-du-Rhone
Valley $17.
This vintner is a relatively small producer of high quality
Rhone wines. I got this bottle in Washington, DC where they have
better variety, but if you see any in our market than grab them.
This Côtes-du-Rhone has richer flavors than most, and the blend of
Rhone grapes makes for a very food-friendly choice.
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August 08 |
Terrabianca, 2000 Campaccio, IGT
Tuscany
A Father's Day gift, this is a blend of 70% Sangiovese and
30% Cabernet Sauvignon, therefore the IGT rating. This is certainly
a Tuscan wine as it has the soft, velvet finish and deep aromas. The
wine has only 13% alcohol and the Cab gives a firm backbone while
not overpowering.
Charles Joguet, 2004 Chinon Clos
de la Dioterie, Loire Valley $32.
I am looking more and more for the wines of the Loire
Valley because the Chenin Blanc and Cabernet Franc are such
interesting wines. This red wine made from Cabernet Franc is one of
the best examples of what this region can do with red wine. The
flavors are soft and supple and very food-friendly. They're hard to
find near my home, so I acquired this one at MacArthur's in
Washington. This is a Kermit Lynch Import, which is a name that can
be relied on.
Sequillo, 2004 Swartland Red
Wine, South Africa $24.
This South African wine is a blend of Syrah, Mourvèdre and
Grenache. It is a rich yet rustic wine that won me over from the
first sniff. The balanced wine needs some decanting to ease it
through the early tightness, but after some time it matches well
with big, rich dinners.
Weingut Max Ferd. Richter, 2002
Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Kabinett, Mosel
What could be better than sitting on my deck with a friend
sharing Bratwurst and sauerkraut and a 6-year-old bottle of German
Riesling. The year 2002 produced very rich wine in the Mosel region,
and this Richter had all of the sweetness that a great vintage
should have at the Kabinett level. Richter, himself, has been in
Winston-Salem several times and is as interesting as his wines are
terrific.
Wente Vineyards, 2006 Chardonnay
"Morning Fog," Livermore Valley
The back label tells me that Wente was established in 1883
and was the first California winery to produce a wine labeled as
Chardonnay. I remember the 60s and 70s when Wente was one of the top
producers of Chardonnay, but they disappeared from the wine shelves
for several decades. Several years ago a friend offered me a bottle
of Wente Chardonnay, and, after about 20 years, I was impressed with
the quality and the memories of great wines from the past. That same
friend recently gave me this wine. Heavy on the oak for an aperitif,
but very good as a food wine. I can't call this balanced, but it
worked very well with a veal dish.
L'Ecole No. 41, 2003 Merlot,
Columbia Valley, Washington
This Washington Merlot, tasted at Fleming's Restaurant in
Greensboro, has great Merlot flavors and bold tastes with 16%
Cabernet Sauvignon and 6% Cabernet Franc. As I have written before,
most people don't really know how good Merlot can be since the lower
priced ones aren't very good. This one is well-rounded with firm
body, but not overly tannic. A real treat with Fleming's mixed
grill.
Gloria Ferrer, Blanc de Noirs,
Sonoma
Martinelli, 2006 Pinot Noir, Bond/Home Ranch, Water Trough Vineyard,
Sonoma
Tasted at Ryan's Restaurant in Winston-Salem, the sparkling
wines from Gloria Ferrer are always a great starter for an evening
out, and this Pinot Noir-based wine was no exception. Refreshing and
flavorful, it worked with my She Crab Soup. The Martinelli may have
a long name but it is also long on flavor. Better with my duck than
by itself, it offered rich, deep flavors without overpowering the
food. We don't see this producer very often, but the wine list at
Ryan's has a lot of fine choices.
Domaine Leflaive, 2000
Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru, Burgundy
Joseph Phelps Vineyards, 1997 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley
When my son comes home we usually celebrate the occasion
with some pretty good wine. We outdid ourselves this time! The
Batard-Montrachet is one of the glories of Burgundy, and Leflaive is
one of the finest producers in the region. This deep golden wine
needed decanting, so we gave it about 30 minutes to open up, which
made it very hard to wait. Deep, rich flavors with an aftertaste
that lasted forever. If you have to ask how much it costs, you can't
afford it. Doug pulled out one of his Phelps wines to toast the life
of Tom Shelton, who was the longtime president of this producer and
a graduate of Wake Forest University. He passed away last month.
I've said before we don't drink enough of these pioneers from
California because we are always trying the newest wines. This
11-year-old Cab was perfection. Balanced with light tannins it was
the best choice to go with our grilled rib eye steaks.
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July 08 |
Dog Point, 2005 Pinot Noir,
Marlborough
Maremma Toscana, 2001 Marsiliana IGT Tuscany
Tasted at the Sampan Restaurant in Winston-Salem. However,
don't look for these outstanding wines on their list since they were
brought by a friend from DC who wanted me to try them. About 4 years
ago he introduced me to the Dog Point, and I have recommended it
frequently as well as added it to the list at the River Birch Lodge.
The Marsiliana was new to me and it is a blend of Sangiovese and
Cabernet Sauvignon. This 7-year old wine is soft, supple and has
terrific flavors. I've always said that it's good to have friends
who like quality wines. Thanks, Gary.
Paradigm, 1995 Merlot, Napa
Valley
When Merlot is good, as this one was, it can't be beat.
Today 95% of the Merlots sold can't stand up to 12 years of ageing,
but Paradigm is a quality producer who has put together a terrific
wine with balanced subtle flavor and the taste of a true Merlot. I
emphasize it tastes like Merlot and not like the usual red wine
experience we mostly see today.
Laurel Gray Vineyards, 2006
Chardonnay Barrel Fermented, Yadkin Valley $l7.
As the very first person to taste Laurel Gray's Chardonnay
(Kim Myers pulled a bottle off the bottling line for me to taste), I
have always been impressed with the quality of this wine. The 2006
is right in line with the previous vintages with deep, rich flavors
and oak flavoring that is not over the top. This is one of North
Carolina's best Chardonnays.
Rosenblum Cellars, 2005 Petite
Sirah Rhodes Vineyard, Redwood Valley, Mendocino $30
Rosenblum is one of my favorite producers with quality wines at all
price levels. They also believe in
terroir since they bottle at least 25 different designated
wines. As I always say, there is nothing small about Petite Sirah.
This bold wine needs decanting and/or a lot of time in the bottle to
relax. The rich flavors will stand up to any piece of beef around.
Mueller, 2005 Chardonnay, Russian
River Valley
A recent birthday gift, this is a new wine to me, but I will seek
out other bottles. The wine is richer than many that I normally
prefer, but the full, oaky flavor pairs well with medium-flavored
dishes. As an aperitif or with a meal, it is a quality wine to be
enjoyed.
Chateau Gruaud-Larose, 1986 St.
Julien, Bordeaux
A Father's Day gift and what a treat! On opening, I found
the aroma to show no trace of mustiness which is normal for a wine
of this age, which has been stored in my cellar since the early
1990s. The flavors were perfectly right from the beginning, although
I re-corked it until just before dinner, then decanted it. There was
some powdery sediment which presented little problem. The flavors
were simply outstanding. This is everything you want in a classified
20-plus-year old Bordeaux.
Dobbins Creek Vineyards, 2006
Riesling, Yadkin Valley $l7.
Dobbins just opened its tasting room about two months ago,
and this is one of the four wines from their first harvest. For a
first effort I was very pleased with the aroma, balance and overall
flavors. Riesling has done very well in the Yadkin Valley in the
past several years, and I look forward to tasting future vintages.
Bodegas Victoria, 2004 Dominio de
Langaz, D.O. Cariñena, Spain $25.
This wine is an Eric Solomon import which can be relied on
for quality, unique selections and reasonable pricing. The Cariñena
DO is located in the Aragon region which is between Madrid and
Barcelona. The wine is dense and rich, yet needs time in the
decanter. I gave it 40 minutes, but it could use more.
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June 08 |
Chateau de Pez, 1996
Saint-Estephe, Bordeaux
This Cabernet Sauvignon dominated wine was musty after
sitting in the bottle for a decade and in my cellar for nine years.
With only about 40 minutes in the decanter it opened up to be rich
with bold flavors like most Saint-Estephe wines. This shows that for
off years and with a Wine Spectator rating of only 80 you
can find some real values when you look for strong producers who
aren't well known. It is only with these lesser known wines from
important regions that you can pay merely $23 for a long-lived wine.
Hanna, 2003 Sauvignon
Blanc, Russian River Valley, Sonoma
Chris Barnes, the owner of the 6th and Vine
Restaurant in Winston-Salem, has known for years that this is one of
my favorite Sauvignon Blancs. It is, of course, of the California
style which is called grassy. There is very little citrus flavoring,
which I prefer, and the well-rounded flavors and rich tastes make
this a consistent winner.
Daedlus, 2006 Pinot Gris,
Willamette Valley
Livio Felluga, 2004 Tocai, Friuli
Tasted at the new wine bar Proof in Washington. The Daedlus
is a new name to me but I hope to find more because it is very
well-rounded and rich. I've had many of Livio's wines before but not
the Tocai and this was lighter than I expect from Livio, but still
offered refreshing flavors. This is a very busy wine bar, and I was
by far the oldest one there.
Robert Mondavi Winery, 1999
Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve, Napa Valley
Tasted at the Capitol Grill in Washington on the day that I
received the news of his passing. The wine was on their list and not
there as a tribute to the great man. It was good timing to have an
8-year old wine, but this one will last for another decade or more.
Body, rich flavors and everything else you would want.
Marco Felluga, 2005
Molamatat, Tocai and Pinot Blanco, Collio del Fruili
The Dino Restaurant in Washington, which lists over 250
wines, was the site of this tasting. Like his brother Livio, Marco's
wines are always big and bold and this white fits his profile. With
this blend you would expect a light fruity wine, but not from Marco.
Rich and long on the finish, yet I'm not sure of its longevity.
Delamotte, Brut Champagne
Soutiran, Brut Rose Champagne
Louis Jadot, 2001 Chevalier-Montrachet Les Demoiselles, Burgundy
Inneskillin, 2006 Late Harvest Cabernet Franc, Ontario
All tasted at the Minibar of Café Atlantico in Washington.
The Delamotte Brut was the welcome wine before we sat at the
six-seat bar for our special dinner. With 30 courses we chose our
wines to be food-friendly. The Rose Champagne, which was one of the
deepest reds I've ever seen, worked very well. The Burgundy was just
outstanding and the 6 years of age made it a delight with this wide
variety of courses. With dessert we chose the Inniskillin which was
lighter than expected, but flavorful, and it worked with the several
dessert courses.
Grgich Hills Cellars, 2006
Fume Blanc, Napa Valley
Chateau Talbot, 2003 St. Julian, Bordeaux
Tasted at the Raven & Peach in New Jersey. We need to go
back to the classic California producers more often. This Grgich
Hills wine was outstanding. Offered in a half bottle it had
incredible body which showed more legs than most red wines. It is
very age worthy and was a delight to have with crab and brie in puff
pastry. It's not often that you can find a Bordeaux-classified wine
at a reasonable price in a restaurant, but this 2003 Talbot was a
bargain. From a very good vintage, this is a terrific wine that
offers fruit and structure that we don't see very often. |
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The
Mondavi Dinner
2003 Chardonnay, Carneros
2006 Pinot Noir, Carneros
2005 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley
1992 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve, Napa Valley
1992 Opus one, Napa Valley
I have been saving the older
vintages for a long time in order to open them to celebrate
the great man's life. The day he died I was in DC
and had several 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserves, but I hosted
a dinner in his honor with a few friends the next weekend. All
of these wines were special not just because of the memories
of what Robert has done for American wines, but also for how
excellent these wines were. Of special note was the Pinot Noir
which had deep flavors and light spices. I expected the
Reserve to be the best of the reds, but the Opus was far
better. We could have kept it until he would have been over
100, and it would still have been a great wine. |
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May 08 |
Raylen Vineyards, 2006
Category 5 Yadkin Valley $18.
One of the first blended wines in North Carolina, this red
wine consists of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and a
small amount of Syrah. I've tasted every vintage of this wine and
have found them all to be outstanding and a value for the quality.
They have a richness that will pair well with the heaviest of meals.
This 2006 should continue to improve in the bottle for at least 4 to
5 years.
Daniel Vineyards, 2003 St.
Vincent, West Virginia
Yes, West Virginia. A number of years ago as a wine judge
we selected a West Virginia wine as best of show for regional wines.
So when I was driving through the state several years ago I
purchased a sampling of the state's wines and this was the last of
those purchases. I assume that the grape is the St. Vincent although
I cannot find any information on that variety. The wine still had
good fruit with a slightly acidic bite. I found it to be pleasant,
but not terribly exciting.
Domaine de la Janasse, 2005
Cotes du Rhone Villages, Terre d'Argile $27.
This is a new producer to me and I'm impressed. It is an
Eric Solomon/European Selection which is an importer that has proven
to be very dependable with smaller producers. The wine is a blend of
40% Grenache, 40% Syrah and 30% Mourvedre. As rich a Côte du Rhone
as you can find. I have put several bottles away to age, so check my
Tasting Notes in the next year or so for an update. This is an
outstanding wine.
Maison Louis Latour, 2005
Santenay, Burgundy $24.
This terrific Pinot Noir from the southern Cote d'Or proves
that you can buy really good Burgundy wines without paying a king's
ransom. Light, fruity and yet with some backbone this is a wine to
age for a year or two while you let its bigger brothers age even
longer.
Nyetimber Vineyards, 1996
Brut, West Sussex, UK
Vintage sparkling wine from the UK? Yes, I purchased this
several years ago while visiting my son in London. I've had several
other bottles of British wine and this was clearly the best. Made in
the Traditional Method it uses the three classic grape varieties
that are used in the Champagne region. Remarkably, after a decade,
this wine tasted fresh, with very small bubbles. We re-corked it and
had the last two glasses several days later, and the wine was still
fine. While I may never have this vintage again I will look for
Nyetimber on my next visit to London.
Westbend Vineyards, 2006
Chambourcin, Yadkin Valley
This was a gift from a friend and I could not have been
more pleased. I always associate Chambourcin with Westbend since
they were the first Chambourcin grapes I ever had. This French
hybred from the Loire Valley is one of my picks for the best grape
varieties to grow in the Yadkin Valley. We had this wine with shrimp
and the food-friendly nature of the wine showed off to perfection.
Richness is very apparent, but the flavors are soft enough to be
pleasing. This is a fine wine to offer to newcomers to wine or to
your snobby friends who may not even know of it.
Paul Jaboulet Aine, 1998 &
1989 Hermitage, La Chapelle, Rhone Valley
Arguably the best known Northern Rhone wine, this 100%
Syrah wine is always special. But to have two in a month is rare. I
brought the ‘98 to the Salem Wine Dinner at Noble's as a special
treat and one of the Cellar class members brought the ‘89 to the
class. The 1989, rated 96 by the Wine Spectator with a
recommendation to drink between 2005 and 2020, was very tight and
musty when opened, but with a considerable amount of air it opened
up to be a spectacular wine. It could have been exposed to air even
more than our class permitted. The ‘98 was equally as good with very
rich taste, yet delicate flavors.
De La Guerra, 2005
Chardonnay, Carneros
It is nice to have birthdays when people know I like
special wines. With a well-prepared grouper, we had this Chardonnay
which is a joint venture between the Hyde Family, the vineyard
owner, and the de Villaine family, of Domaine Romanee Conti. This is
a new wine to me but proved to be an outstanding Burgundian style
Chardonnay. With soft oak and rich flavors this is a wine to watch
as future versions arrive on the market.
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April 08 |
Girard, 2005 Sauvignon Blanc,
Napa Valley $l8.
As one of the best producers in Napa, Girard is best known
for its red wine, but their Sauvignon Blanc is outstanding. With
crisp freshness this makes a
great aperitif or can accompany a wide variety of starter courses.
Chateau des Charmes, 2005 Aligote,
Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ontario
This was a gift from a friend I introduced to Aligote 7
years ago. This Aligote grape isn't well known, but it is the second
white grape permitted in Burgundy. It is the prescribed white wine
to use in Kir, the French aperitif. Remarkably this tastes very
different from the French version. It is very minerally and has a
lot of acidity due to the northern location of the vineyard. I may
not find this wine again but it was very enjoyable.
Rag Apple Lassie Vineyards,
Merlot, Yadkin Valley $l5.
This non-vintage wine from Boonville, NC has a light body
but the winemaker, Linda King, was able to maintain rich fruit from
the start to the finish. This wine stands up very well against
similarly priced California Merlots. (see next wine)
Beaulieu Vineyards (BV), 2004
Merlot, California $l0.
I've often commented that the Merlot wines coming from
California that sell for under $20 are not worth buying. This wine
proves that I have been right. Merlot is so over planted in
California that these inexpensive wines show zero varietal character
and, frankly, have an unpleasant taste. Shame on BV, one of the
great California wineries, for producing such a poor wine.
Domaine des Roches Neuves, 2004
Saumur L'Insolite, Loire Valley $26.
This wine is 100% Chenin Blanc that, in my opinion, is the
most underrated grape varietal. The Loire Valley is the home of
Chenin Blanc and this wine shows off the grape's potential. With
rich, crisp flavors it is overwhelmingly powerful and could be
paired with a wide variety of foods.
Perrin & Fils, 2002
Chareauneuf-du-Pape, Les Sinards, Rhone Valley
Vintage dates are all important and sometimes we let wines rest in
our cellars too long. That was true for this wine. Chateau de
Beaucastel chose not to produce their wine in 2002 since it was such
a poor vintage - Wine Spectator rated the vintage a 76 - but they
used their grapes for this second label. I have had several bottles
of this wine and found them to be very pleasant and a good value at
about $25. However, after 5 years this wine had lost most of its
fruit, and I was disappointed. We need to monitor our cellars
better.
Jarvis, 2006 Chardonnay, Napa
Valley
Crocker & Starr, 2002 Cabernet Franc, Napa Valley
Both wines were tasted at the Zebra Restaurant in
Charlotte. I have never had Jarvis before and was very impressed.
The young wine showed terrific roundness and flavor and proved to be
one of the California-styled Chards that I could drink more often.
The Crocker & Starr was also new to me but it was recommended by my
son Doug. It was very rich for a Cab Franc and the 5 years in the
bottle must have softened it some. The rich flavors worked well with
a very tender beef tenderloin. These are two wines worth the effort
to find again.
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March 08 |
Cellar Joan Simo,
2003 Les Eres, Vinyes Velles, Priorat DO
A blend of Carignan, Grenache, Cabernet Sauvignon and Picapoll.
The vines average about 85-years old and produce a deeply flavored
wine. The Priorat is one of the hottest regions in Spain and this
wine proves that there is a lot happening here.
Banfi, 2005
Chianti Classico, Tuscany DOCG
The River Birch Lodge in Winston-Salem makes probably the best
lasagna in Forsyth County, and I added this wine to their list when
I was consulting on its expansion. It is a terrific pairing with the
house salad and the rich lasagna. The flavors are subtle but the
light acidity balances with the tomato sauce.
Westbend
Vineyards, 2006 Viognier, Yadkin Valley $l5.
Westbend and their winemaker, Mark Terry, have a lot of experience
making Viognier since they were the first vineyard in North Carolina
to plant vinifera vines. This wine was clean and crisp and one of
the better quality Viognier wines in North Carolina.
Vesevo, 2001
Taurasi, Campania DOCG
When I got this bottle I was excited thinking that it might be from
the revitalized Pompeii vineyards. However, I’m not certain about
that, but the wine is 100% Aglianico which is one of the varietals
planted near the volcano 2,000 years ago. The wine had a dense color
with very rich flavors and a rustic finish. I think that this wine
could age at least 5 more years.
Pax, 2004 Syrah,
Alder Springs Vineyard, Mendocino County
Vinted, cellared and bottled by Pax Wine Cellars and given to me by
a friend, this is a new wine for me. There is a quote on the label
“Wine is a journey not a destination” which I think is very
profound. The wine is inky dark and the flavors follow the color. We
decanted this about 30 minutes before serving, but due to its
hardiness it should have been opened about 2 hours sooner.
Domaine Weinbach,
2005 Riesling Cuvee Theo, Alsace
Louis Latour, 1996 Corton-Charlemagne, Burgundy
Flowers, 2003 Perennial, Sonoma Valley
Antinori, 1999 Guado al Tasso, Tuscany
Grant Burge, 2002 Rhone Blend, Barossa Valley
Stony Hill, 2000 Late Harvest Semillon, Santa Cruz
When I am in DC and dining with four other wine lovers it can get
pretty intense. Unfortunately, I arrived late and missed the two
bottles of vintage Champagne. Dinner was at Vidalia. When a
spectacular Weinbach isn’t the best white wine of the night things
are really good. The big hit of the evening was the Latour which was
decanted 30 minutes before serving, yet it was still improving in
the glass. I was advised to save some until after I had some of the
Flowers, one of my favorite red blends, and I was startled that this
Chardonnay tasted even better after the red. What a treat to have
mature wine, but this one could age for many more years. The
Flowers, which is mostly Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, was soft and
terrific. The Guadeo al Tasso was new to me, but it had rich flavors
and was powerful with mostly Cabernet Sauvignon. The Burge was as
bold as most of their wines are and the final wine of the evening
was a Semillon. Sweet and balanced, this Stony Hill was the perfect
end to a wine lovers dinner.
Taittinger, Brut
Champagne La Francaise
Villa Matilda, 2006 Falanghina, Falerno del Massico
Prunotto, 2003 Barbaresco, Piedmont DOCG
These were tasted with a fantastic dinner at Tosca in DC, a new
restaurant to me to which I will be returning again soon. When a
restaurant offers Champagne by the glass you know you are off to a
good start. The Falanghina was from a producer that is new to me and
it was clean and minerally with light fruit. Of course, the
Barbaresco wasn’t similarly light, it was rich and powerful and was
a great match with my Braised Lamb Shank.
Gentic, 2006
Robula, Cephalonia, Greece
Massaya, 2004 Silver Blend, Bekaa Valley, Lebanon
Mandilaria/Mavrotegang, 2005 Argyros at Lantis, Nemea, Greece
Chateau Ksara, 2004 Muscatel, Bekaa Valley
The Zaytinya Restaurant is one of Jose Andres’ newer restaurants in
DC. The Sunday tapas brunch is in many ways similar to the brunch at
Café Atlantico, but the food and wines are from Greece, Lebanon,
Turkey and Israel. The Robula was probably the best Greek wine I’ve
ever had. It was a crisp wine with different flavors that made a
good starter. The Massaya was a Rhone blend with a small amount of
Cabernet Sauvignon added and had dark yet subtle flavors. The
Mandelaria was made with the Aghiorghitiko grape which produces a
dark red wine and was a very good finishing wine with our tapas. The
Lebanese dessert wine was a Muscat with 25% Gewurztraminer and a
very fine end to my DC weekend visit with my son.
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February 08 |
Weingut Max Ferd. Richter, 2002
Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Kabinett, Qualitatswein mit Pradikat,
Mosel-Saar-Ruwer
Yes, the name is long but the German wine labels tell us
almost everything we need to know about the wine. Herr Dr. Richter
has visited Winston-Salem on several occasions, and it was during
one of his visits I acquired this wine. Since the Richter family has
been making wine for over 250 years in the Mosel, we shouldn't be
surprised that they make outstanding wines. This is a lightly sweet
wine with an acidic backbone that has aided the ageing process to
make this 5-year old wine a delight. Note this has only 9% alcohol.
Hartford, 2003 Zinfandel, Russian
River $33.
I was first introduced to the wines of Hartford at the
Hilton Head Wine Competition about 5 years ago. After judging a
terrific Pinot Noir, I sought out the bottle to see what it was and
to have another taste. I have also had their Chardonnay which is
also at a very high level. This Zin which is over 4-years old has
bold flavors yet the ageing has softened them from what they must
have been on release. The fruit is very apparent and offers a
well-balanced wine.
Stags' Leap Winery, 2004 Merlot,
Napa Valley
I had this wine at Noble's Grill in Winston-Salem
and always look forward to opening a bottle from this producer who
makes big, rich wines. This wine is from what I call the "other
Stags' Leap" since the more famous one is the Stag's Leap Wine
Cellars which won the
1st
place for Cabernet Sauvignon in the famous 1976 Paris tasting
against Bordeaux's best. Later this year there will be two movies
released on the Paris tasting. These two wineries have had lawsuits
over the use of the name for about a decade and recently settled in
an agreement to use different apostrophe placement in their names.
The wine was a bit on the harsh side until I tried it with my lamb
dish and then the combination was perfect. Merlot is still a great
wine variety, but you can't get any value from the inexpensive ones.
Kinkead Ridge, 2005 Cabernet
Franc, Ohio River Valley
Wine from Ohio? Yes, in fact Ohio produces about twice as
much wine as North Carolina and was once the state that produced the
most wine in our country. This wine illustrates that our country is
making great progress in its efforts to produce good quality wine.
It was a very fruity wine with good balance and it complemented a
sautéed chicken breast because of the lightness of the Cab.
Louis Latour, 2003 Aloxe-Corton
Les Chaillots, 1er Cru
I often wonder if I'm losing my sense of smell or if the
wines aren't offering as much aroma as in the past. Well, this wine
tells me it isn't my nose. It has a floral nose that is attention
getting every time I lifted the glass. It was soft and gentle and
worked perfectly with the veal dish I prepared for my lady on
Valentine's Day.
Luna, 2005 Pinot Grigio, Napa
Valley
Tasted at the Meridan Restaurant in Winston-Salem, this is
one of my favorite wines and wine producers. Please don't confuse
Luna with Luna di Luna as they are not the same. The Pinot Grigio is
crisp, acidic and excellent with a wide variety of foods.
King, 2006 Pinot Gris, Oregon
This is a really good wine, but the restaurant where I
tasted it, Frankie Bones in Hilton Head, has no idea that
excessively chilled white wine has no taste. I tried one other white
wine by the glass and it, too, was served overly chilled.
Bouchard Pere & Fils, 2003 Beaune,
Clos de la Mousse
I tasted this wine at the Red Fish Restaurant in Hilton
Head. It was slightly musty when first uncorked, but with 5 to 10
minutes in the glass it opened up to have a terrific aroma with rich
flavors. This was a terrific value at $45 from the wine shop
attached to the restaurant. It went perfectly with the Sea Bass
which was also outstanding.
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January 08 |
Mondavi, 2005 Cabernet
Sauvignon, Napa Valley $20.
Probably the best Napa Cab made by the Mondavi firm in at least 5
years. The price is a special deal currently available, but it is
doubtful if it will hold long. The wine is a terrific Cab value with
rich fruit flavors and well-balanced, best after about one year more
of bottle-aging.
Westbend Vineyards, 1995
Cabernet Sauvignon, Yadkin Valley
When this wine was made there were only 8 wineries in all of NC and
today there are 72 with 23 in the Yadkin Valley appellation. The
grape vines at Westbend were planted in the 70s and 80s so the fruit
came from well-aged vines and the wine was made by NC’s premiere
winemaker Steve Shepard. It needed about 30 minutes of breathing in
my large glasses to open up and it showed very good fruit after 12
years of aging. The wine was purchased at the winery in February,
2003 then stored in my cellar.
Yellow Tail, 2005 Shiraz
Reserve, Australia $11.
The term reserve has no definition in America or Australia. This
reserve wine represents 50,000 cases out of a total of 8.1 million
cases imported to this country. Is this what we consider a true
reserve? Well, the Wine Spectator must consider it a great
wine since it named it the 72nd best wine of 2007 and
rated it 90 points. When I tasted it I found little to no fruit,
little taste on the palate and no finish. The body was lacking and
it had little or no balance. Who do you trust for wine evaluations?
Tablas Creek Vineyards, 2003
Esprit de Beaucastel Blanc, Paso Robles
A blend of 68% Roussanne, 27% Grenache Blanc and 5% Viognier this
Paso Robles wine has truly outstanding flavors and richness. At four
years old this is just reaching its maturity. See October, 2007 for
notes on the Esprit de Beaucastel Rouge.
Prager, 2005 Grüner
Veltliner, Hunter de Berg, Austria
Tasted at the Bleu Restaurant, Prager is considered one of the
finest producers in the Wachau Valley and this is an outstanding
wine, even though it doesn’t fit the profile of a Grüner. This is a
clean, rich and full-flavored wine, but without the usual spices you
might expect. If I had been blind tasting I would have guessed it
was a superior Chenin Blanc.
Van Ruiten Vineyards, 2002
Old Vine Zinfandel, Lodi $16.
While “old vine” is not a defined term in America I have been to the
Van Ruiten Vineyards and saw the 7-inch thick vines. These vines
stand upright without trellis support due to the age of these vines.
This is a great Zin for the price and it has the structure of higher
priced wines, but does not have the over the top alcohol and tannins
which means it is very drinkable at 5 years.
Windmill, 2005 Cabernet
Sauvignon, Lodi $14.
This is another Michael-David wine and it has their quality combined
with a modest price. Winston-Salem and the Wine Merchant Gourmet
wine shop are the second best market for these wines outside of
California. The Cab is a winner with softer tannins which makes it
approachable at this young age.
McDowell, 2006 Viognier,
Mendocino $19.
I haven’t seen any McDowell wines in our area in many years, so I
was anxious to try this one. As in the past they deliver good
quality wines. The Viognier is a full-flavored, rich wine that would
be great with a wide variety of foods, but I had it as a wine at a
New Year’s party and it was a treat without a meal.
Las Rocas, 2005 Garnacha
Vinas Viejas, Calatyud $20.
In the past several vintages Las Rocas has been making superior
wines for the price. This old vine Garnacha has rich flavors with
subtle spice. They make a version for about half the price which is
also a good value.
Rosenblum Cellars, 2005
Zinfandel, Paso Robles $18.
You will find frequent notes on the wines from Rosenblum because
they are always outstanding at their price point. The Paso Robles
Zin is no exception. Full Zin flavors bring great pleasure in the
glass. I had this with my home-made spaghetti sauce and it made a
perfect match because of the subtle acidity in the wine.
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