Bruce Heye - The Wine Guy

 

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08 January - September Wine Tasting Notes

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January February March April May June July August September

 

September 08 Cave de Saumur, 2006 Saumur, Reserve des Vignerons, Loire Valley $10.
It is always a special treat to get a good bottle of wine at a value price. Since Chenin Blanc is currently one of my favorite grape varieties, I'm on the lookout for Loire wines and this is where this grape shines. There is a tartness to the wine which makes it a good summer wine, plus it's  compatible with a wide variety of foods.

1919, 2006 Malbec, Mendoza $12.
I first tasted this wine at the 6th and Vine Restaurant in Winston-Salem. That same day I found a bottle at the Wine Merchants Gourmet at a very attractive price. Malbec is one of the new darlings of the wine world and the best grape growing in Argentina. This is a soft wine ready for drinking now through 2010.The label states that the vines are 30 or more years old, so it means the vintner has done a excellent job in keeping it relatively light.

Hartford Court, 2006 Stone Côte Vineyard, Sonoma
Louis Latour, 2006 Meursault, Burgundy
Chateau Pavie, 2004 La Rosee, Bordeaux
Louis Latour, 2005 Santemay, Burgundy
Chateau La Dominique,1989 St. Emilion Grand Cru Classe (magnum)
Domaine des Baumard, 2002 Quarts de Chaume, Loire Valley
Getting together with wine friends is always exciting as they will share some of their favorites, and I open my cellar to match. The Hartford Court was opened in the afternoon and I must say I didn't care for it (even though it's priced at $57.) It was brought to my home that evening, having been opened about six hours and offered to me blind. I thought it was terrific and guessed it was a white Burgundy. Decanting white wine will work miracles! The Meursault was soft and didn't have typical flavors. I have several bottles of this wine and will review it again in a year or so as I suspect it needs more ageing. We don't see classified-growth Bordeaux chateaus producing Rosés very often, but many of them do, and they can be really good with intense flavors. The Santenay fooled me also as a blind tasting since I reviewed the wine in my May 2008 notes. It was much richer than I expected for a Pinot Noir. I purchased the St. Emilion in Bordeaux in 1994 and have cellared it since. This was the right time to open a great year that has rested for 19 years. Finally, the dessert wine from the Loire Valley which is the sweet version of Chenin Blanc, was fruity and lively and could age for at least 5 more years -- maybe ten.

Pirosmani, 2004 Saperavi, Alazani Valey, Georgia
When visiting friends' homes I often find them overly concerned about what wines to serve. So I tell them that frankly I enjoy well-made or interesting wines. This wine hit a home run. Made in Soviet Georgia, much in the news these days, it uses the Saperavi grape which is new to me, and it was a grand success. The label tells us, in that part in English and not Cyrillic, that the wine was made in the traditional method of fermenting in a clay jug that is buried in the ground. I've had Russian wines before, but this was the best. It tasted like a table wine from the Oporto region of Portugal with deep rich flavors, almost port-like. This is well worth seeking out, and I understand they also make a white wine.

J. Lidal-Fleury, 2005 Côtes-du-Ventoux, Rhone Valley $13.
The producer is well known, but the region, in the southern part of the Rhone Valley just east of Chateauneuf-du-Pape, gets little exposure here. The principal grape is Grenache, but I expect some Syrah has been added. Therefore it shows some backbone and spice, but has a gentle side. This is a good value wine.

Saint Cosme, 2006 Côtes-du-Rhone Valley $17.
This vintner is a relatively small producer of high quality Rhone wines. I got this bottle in Washington, DC where they have better variety, but if you see any in our market than grab them. This Côtes-du-Rhone has richer flavors than most, and the blend of Rhone grapes makes for a very food-friendly choice.

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August 08 Terrabianca, 2000 Campaccio, IGT Tuscany
A Father's Day gift, this is a blend of 70% Sangiovese and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, therefore the IGT rating. This is certainly a Tuscan wine as it has the soft, velvet finish and deep aromas. The wine has only 13% alcohol and the Cab gives a firm backbone while not overpowering.

Charles Joguet, 2004 Chinon Clos de la Dioterie, Loire Valley $32.
I am looking more and more for the wines of the Loire Valley because the Chenin Blanc and Cabernet Franc are such interesting wines. This red wine made from Cabernet Franc is one of the best examples of what this region can do with red wine. The flavors are soft and supple and very food-friendly. They're hard to find near my home, so I acquired this one at MacArthur's in Washington. This is a Kermit Lynch Import, which is a name that can be relied on.

Sequillo, 2004 Swartland Red Wine, South Africa $24.
This South African wine is a blend of Syrah, Mourvèdre and Grenache. It is a rich yet rustic wine that won me over from the first sniff. The balanced wine needs some decanting to ease it through the early tightness, but after some time it matches well with big, rich dinners.

Weingut Max Ferd. Richter, 2002 Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Kabinett, Mosel
What could be better than sitting on my deck with a friend sharing Bratwurst and sauerkraut and a 6-year-old bottle of German Riesling. The year 2002 produced very rich wine in the Mosel region, and this Richter had all of the sweetness that a great vintage should have at the Kabinett level. Richter, himself, has been in Winston-Salem several times and is as interesting as his wines are terrific.

Wente Vineyards, 2006 Chardonnay "Morning Fog," Livermore Valley
The back label tells me that Wente was established in 1883 and was the first California winery to produce a wine labeled as Chardonnay. I remember the 60s and 70s when Wente was one of the top producers of Chardonnay, but they disappeared from the wine shelves for several decades. Several years ago a friend offered me a bottle of Wente Chardonnay, and, after about 20 years, I was impressed with the quality and the memories of great wines from the past. That same friend recently gave me this wine. Heavy on the oak for an aperitif, but very good as a food wine. I can't call this balanced, but it worked very well with a veal dish.

L'Ecole No. 41, 2003 Merlot, Columbia Valley, Washington
This Washington Merlot, tasted at Fleming's Restaurant in Greensboro, has great Merlot flavors and bold tastes with 16% Cabernet Sauvignon and 6% Cabernet Franc. As I have written before, most people don't really know how good Merlot can be since the lower priced ones aren't very good. This one is well-rounded with firm body, but not overly tannic. A real treat with Fleming's mixed grill.

Gloria Ferrer, Blanc de Noirs, Sonoma
Martinelli, 2006 Pinot Noir, Bond/Home Ranch, Water Trough Vineyard, Sonoma
Tasted at Ryan's Restaurant in Winston-Salem, the sparkling wines from Gloria Ferrer are always a great starter for an evening out, and this Pinot Noir-based wine was no exception. Refreshing and flavorful, it worked with my She Crab Soup. The Martinelli may have a long name but it is also long on flavor. Better with my duck than by itself, it offered rich, deep flavors without overpowering the food. We don't see this producer very often, but the wine list at Ryan's has a lot of fine choices.

Domaine Leflaive, 2000 Batard-Montrachet Grand Cru, Burgundy
Joseph Phelps Vineyards, 1997 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley
When my son comes home we usually celebrate the occasion with some pretty good wine. We outdid ourselves this time! The Batard-Montrachet is one of the glories of Burgundy, and Leflaive is one of the finest producers in the region. This deep golden wine needed decanting, so we gave it about 30 minutes to open up, which made it very hard to wait. Deep, rich flavors with an aftertaste that lasted forever. If you have to ask how much it costs, you can't afford it. Doug pulled out one of his Phelps wines to toast the life of Tom Shelton, who was the longtime president of this producer and a graduate of Wake Forest University. He passed away last month. I've said before we don't drink enough of these pioneers from California because we are always trying the newest wines. This 11-year-old Cab was perfection. Balanced with light tannins it was the best choice to go with our grilled rib eye steaks.

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July 08 Dog Point, 2005 Pinot Noir, Marlborough
Maremma Toscana, 2001 Marsiliana IGT Tuscany
Tasted at the Sampan Restaurant in Winston-Salem. However, don't look for these outstanding wines on their list since they were brought by a friend from DC who wanted me to try them. About 4 years ago he introduced me to the Dog Point, and I have recommended it frequently as well as added it to the list at the River Birch Lodge. The Marsiliana was new to me and it is a blend of Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon. This 7-year old wine is soft, supple and has terrific flavors. I've always said that it's good to have friends who like quality wines. Thanks, Gary.

Paradigm, 1995 Merlot, Napa Valley
When Merlot is good, as this one was, it can't be beat. Today 95% of the Merlots sold can't stand up to 12 years of ageing, but Paradigm is a quality producer who has put together a terrific wine with balanced subtle flavor and the taste of a true Merlot. I emphasize it tastes like Merlot and not like the usual red wine experience we mostly see today.

Laurel Gray Vineyards, 2006 Chardonnay Barrel Fermented, Yadkin Valley $l7.
As the very first person to taste Laurel Gray's Chardonnay (Kim Myers pulled a bottle off the bottling line for me to taste), I have always been impressed with the quality of this wine. The 2006 is right in line with the previous vintages with deep, rich flavors and oak flavoring that is not over the top. This is one of North Carolina's best Chardonnays.

Rosenblum Cellars, 2005 Petite Sirah Rhodes Vineyard, Redwood Valley, Mendocino $30
Rosenblum is one of my favorite producers with quality wines at all price levels. They also believe in terroir since they bottle at least 25 different designated wines. As I always say, there is nothing small about Petite Sirah. This bold wine needs decanting and/or a lot of time in the bottle to relax. The rich flavors will stand up to any piece of beef around.

Mueller, 2005 Chardonnay, Russian River Valley
A recent birthday gift, this is a new wine to me, but I will seek out other bottles. The wine is richer than many that I normally prefer, but the full, oaky flavor pairs well with medium-flavored dishes. As an aperitif or with a meal, it is a quality wine to be enjoyed.

Chateau Gruaud-Larose, 1986 St. Julien, Bordeaux
A Father's Day gift and what a treat! On opening, I found the aroma to show no trace of mustiness which is normal for a wine of this age, which has been stored in my cellar since the early 1990s. The flavors were perfectly right from the beginning, although I re-corked it until just before dinner, then decanted it. There was some powdery sediment which presented little problem. The flavors were simply outstanding. This is everything you want in a classified 20-plus-year old Bordeaux.

Dobbins Creek Vineyards, 2006 Riesling, Yadkin Valley $l7.
Dobbins just opened its tasting room about two months ago, and this is one of the four wines from their first harvest. For a first effort I was very pleased with the aroma, balance and overall flavors. Riesling has done very well in the Yadkin Valley in the past several years, and I look forward to tasting future vintages.

Bodegas Victoria, 2004 Dominio de Langaz, D.O. Cariñena, Spain $25.
This wine is an Eric Solomon import which can be relied on for quality, unique selections and reasonable pricing. The Cariñena DO is located in the Aragon region which is between Madrid and Barcelona. The wine is dense and rich, yet needs time in the  decanter. I gave it 40 minutes, but it could use more.

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June 08 Chateau de Pez, 1996 Saint-Estephe, Bordeaux
This Cabernet Sauvignon dominated wine was musty after sitting in the bottle for a decade and in my cellar for nine years. With only about 40 minutes in the decanter it opened up to be rich with bold flavors like most Saint-Estephe wines. This shows that for off years and with a Wine Spectator rating of only 80 you can find some real values when you look for strong producers who aren't well known. It is only with these lesser known wines from important regions that you can pay merely $23 for a long-lived wine.

Hanna, 2003 Sauvignon Blanc, Russian River Valley, Sonoma
Chris Barnes, the owner of the 6th and Vine Restaurant in Winston-Salem, has known for years that this is one of my favorite Sauvignon Blancs. It is, of course, of the California style which is called grassy. There is very little citrus flavoring, which I prefer, and the well-rounded flavors and rich tastes make this a consistent winner.

Daedlus, 2006 Pinot Gris, Willamette Valley
Livio Felluga, 2004 Tocai, Friuli
Tasted at the new wine bar Proof in Washington. The Daedlus is a new name to me but I hope to find more because it is very well-rounded and rich. I've had many of Livio's wines before but not the Tocai and this was lighter than I expect from Livio, but still offered refreshing flavors. This is a very busy wine bar, and I was by far the oldest one there.

Robert Mondavi Winery, 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve, Napa Valley
Tasted at the Capitol Grill in Washington on the day that I received the news of his passing. The wine was on their list and not there as a tribute to the great man. It was good timing to have an 8-year old wine, but this one will last for another decade or more. Body, rich flavors and everything else you would want.

Marco Felluga, 2005 Molamatat, Tocai and Pinot Blanco, Collio del Fruili
The Dino Restaurant in Washington, which lists over 250 wines, was the site of this tasting. Like his brother Livio, Marco's wines are always big and bold and this white fits his profile. With this blend you would expect a light fruity wine, but not from Marco. Rich and long on the finish, yet I'm not sure of its longevity.

Delamotte, Brut Champagne
Soutiran, Brut Rose Champagne
Louis Jadot, 2001 Chevalier-Montrachet Les Demoiselles, Burgundy
Inneskillin, 2006 Late Harvest Cabernet Franc, Ontario
All tasted at the Minibar of Café Atlantico in Washington. The Delamotte Brut was the welcome wine before we sat at the six-seat bar for our special dinner. With 30 courses we chose our wines to be food-friendly. The Rose Champagne, which was one of the deepest reds I've ever seen, worked very well. The Burgundy was just outstanding and the 6 years of age made it a delight with this wide variety of courses. With dessert we chose the Inniskillin which was lighter than expected, but flavorful, and it worked with the several dessert courses.

Grgich Hills Cellars, 2006 Fume Blanc, Napa Valley
Chateau Talbot, 2003 St. Julian, Bordeaux
Tasted at the Raven & Peach in New Jersey. We need to go back to the classic California producers more often. This Grgich Hills wine was outstanding. Offered in a half bottle it had incredible body which showed more legs than most red wines. It is very age worthy and was a delight to have with crab and brie in puff pastry. It's not often that you can find a Bordeaux-classified wine at a reasonable price in a restaurant, but this 2003 Talbot was a bargain. From a very good vintage, this is a terrific wine that offers fruit and structure that we don't see very often.

 

The Mondavi Dinner
2003 Chardonnay, Carneros
2006 Pinot Noir, Carneros
2005 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley
1992 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve, Napa Valley
1992 Opus one, Napa Valley

I have been saving the older vintages for a long time in order to open them to celebrate the great man's life. The day he died I was in DC and had several 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserves, but I hosted a dinner in his honor with a few friends the next weekend. All of these wines were special not just because of the memories of what Robert has done for American wines, but also for how excellent these wines were. Of special note was the Pinot Noir which had deep flavors and light spices. I expected the Reserve to be the best of the reds, but the Opus was far better. We could have kept it until he would have been over 100, and it would still have been a great wine.

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May 08 Raylen Vineyards, 2006 Category 5 Yadkin Valley $18.
One of the first blended wines in North Carolina, this red wine consists of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and a small amount of Syrah. I've tasted every vintage of this wine and have found them all to be outstanding and a value for the quality. They have a richness that will pair well with the heaviest of meals. This 2006 should continue to improve in the bottle for at least 4 to 5 years.

Daniel Vineyards, 2003 St. Vincent, West Virginia
Yes, West Virginia. A number of years ago as a wine judge we selected a West Virginia wine as best of show for regional wines. So when I was driving through the state several years ago I purchased a sampling of the state's wines and this was the last of those purchases. I assume that the grape is the St. Vincent although I cannot find any information on that variety. The wine still had good fruit with a slightly acidic bite. I found it to be pleasant, but not terribly exciting.

Domaine de la Janasse, 2005 Cotes du Rhone Villages, Terre d'Argile  $27.
This is a new producer to me and I'm impressed. It is an Eric Solomon/European Selection which is an importer that has proven to be very dependable with smaller producers. The wine is a blend of 40% Grenache, 40% Syrah and 30% Mourvedre. As rich a Côte du Rhone as you can find. I have put several bottles away to age, so check my Tasting Notes in the next year or so for an update. This is an outstanding wine.

Maison Louis Latour, 2005 Santenay, Burgundy  $24.
This terrific Pinot Noir from the southern Cote d'Or proves that you can buy really good Burgundy wines without paying a king's ransom. Light, fruity and yet with some backbone this is a wine to age for a year or two while you let its bigger brothers age even longer.

Nyetimber Vineyards, 1996 Brut, West Sussex, UK
Vintage sparkling wine from the UK? Yes, I purchased this several years ago while visiting my son in London. I've had several other bottles of British wine and this was clearly the best. Made in the Traditional Method it uses the three classic grape varieties that are used in the Champagne region. Remarkably, after a decade, this wine tasted fresh, with very small bubbles. We re-corked it and had the last two glasses several days later, and the wine was still fine. While I may never have this vintage again I will look for Nyetimber on my next visit to London.

Westbend Vineyards, 2006 Chambourcin, Yadkin Valley
This was a gift from a friend and I could not have been more pleased. I always associate Chambourcin with Westbend since they were the first Chambourcin grapes I ever had. This French hybred from the Loire Valley is one of my picks for the best grape varieties to grow in the Yadkin Valley. We had this wine with shrimp and the food-friendly nature of the wine showed off to perfection. Richness is very apparent, but the flavors are soft enough to be pleasing. This is a fine wine to offer to newcomers to wine or to your snobby friends who may not even know of it.

Paul Jaboulet Aine, 1998 & 1989 Hermitage, La Chapelle, Rhone Valley
Arguably the best known Northern Rhone wine, this 100% Syrah wine is always special. But to have two in a month is rare. I brought the ‘98 to the Salem Wine Dinner at Noble's as a special treat and one of the Cellar class members brought the ‘89 to the class. The 1989, rated 96 by the Wine Spectator with a recommendation to drink between 2005 and 2020, was very tight and musty when opened, but with a considerable amount of air it opened up to be a spectacular wine. It could have been exposed to air even more than our class permitted. The ‘98 was equally as good with very rich taste, yet delicate flavors.

De La Guerra, 2005 Chardonnay, Carneros
It is nice to have birthdays when people know I like special wines. With a well-prepared grouper, we had this Chardonnay which is a joint venture between the Hyde Family, the vineyard owner, and the de Villaine family, of Domaine Romanee Conti. This is a new wine to me but proved to be an outstanding Burgundian style Chardonnay. With soft oak and rich flavors this is a wine to watch as future versions arrive on the market.

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April 08 Girard, 2005 Sauvignon Blanc, Napa Valley  $l8.
As one of the best producers in Napa, Girard is best known for its red wine, but their Sauvignon Blanc is outstanding. With crisp freshness this makes a great aperitif or can accompany a wide variety of starter courses.

Chateau des Charmes, 2005 Aligote, Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ontario
This was a gift from a friend I introduced to Aligote 7 years ago. This Aligote grape isn't well known, but it is the second white grape permitted in Burgundy. It is the prescribed white wine to use in Kir, the French aperitif. Remarkably this tastes very different from the French version. It is very minerally and has a lot of acidity due to the northern location of the vineyard. I may not find this wine again but it was very enjoyable.

Rag Apple Lassie Vineyards, Merlot, Yadkin Valley $l5.
This non-vintage wine from Boonville, NC has a light body but the winemaker, Linda King, was able to maintain rich fruit from the start to the finish. This wine stands up very well against similarly priced California Merlots. (see next wine)

Beaulieu Vineyards (BV), 2004 Merlot, California $l0.
I've often commented that the Merlot wines coming from California that sell for under $20 are not worth buying. This wine proves that I have been right. Merlot is so over planted in California that these inexpensive wines show zero varietal character and, frankly, have an unpleasant taste. Shame on BV, one of the great California wineries, for producing such a poor wine.

Domaine des Roches Neuves, 2004 Saumur L'Insolite, Loire Valley $26.
This wine is 100% Chenin Blanc that, in my opinion, is the most underrated grape varietal. The Loire Valley is the home of Chenin Blanc and this wine shows off the grape's potential. With rich, crisp flavors it is overwhelmingly powerful and could be paired with a wide variety of foods.

Perrin & Fils, 2002 Chareauneuf-du-Pape, Les Sinards, Rhone Valley
Vintage dates are all important and sometimes we let wines rest in our cellars too long. That was true for this wine. Chateau de Beaucastel chose not to produce their wine in 2002 since it was such a poor vintage - Wine Spectator rated the vintage a 76 - but they used their grapes for this second label. I have had several bottles of this wine and found them to be very pleasant and a good value at about $25. However, after 5 years this wine had lost most of its fruit, and I was disappointed. We need to monitor our cellars better.

Jarvis, 2006 Chardonnay, Napa Valley
Crocker & Starr, 2002 Cabernet Franc, Napa Valley
Both wines were tasted at the Zebra Restaurant in Charlotte. I have never had Jarvis before and was very impressed. The young wine showed terrific roundness and flavor and proved to be one of the California-styled Chards that I could drink more often. The Crocker & Starr was also new to me but it was recommended by my son Doug. It was very rich for a Cab Franc and the 5 years in the bottle must have softened it some. The rich flavors worked well with a very tender beef tenderloin. These are two wines worth the effort to find again.

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March 08

Cellar Joan Simo, 2003 Les Eres, Vinyes Velles, Priorat DO
A blend of Carignan, Grenache, Cabernet Sauvignon and Picapoll. The vines average about 85-years old and produce a deeply flavored wine. The Priorat is one of the hottest regions in Spain and this wine proves that there is a lot happening here. 

Banfi, 2005 Chianti Classico, Tuscany DOCG
The River Birch Lodge in Winston-Salem makes probably the best lasagna in Forsyth County, and I added this wine to their list when I was consulting on its expansion. It is a terrific pairing with the house salad and the rich lasagna. The flavors are subtle but the light acidity balances with the tomato sauce. 

Westbend Vineyards, 2006 Viognier, Yadkin Valley $l5.
Westbend and their winemaker, Mark Terry, have a lot of experience making Viognier since they were the first vineyard in North Carolina to plant vinifera vines. This wine was clean and crisp and one of the better quality Viognier wines in North Carolina. 

Vesevo, 2001 Taurasi, Campania DOCG
When I got this bottle I was excited thinking that it might be from the revitalized Pompeii vineyards. However, I’m not certain about that, but the wine is 100% Aglianico which is one of the varietals planted near the volcano 2,000 years ago. The wine had a dense color with very rich flavors and a rustic finish. I think that this wine could age at least 5 more years. 

Pax, 2004 Syrah, Alder Springs Vineyard, Mendocino County
Vinted, cellared and bottled by Pax Wine Cellars and given to me by a friend, this is a new wine for me. There is a quote on the label “Wine is a journey not a destination” which I think is very profound. The wine is inky dark and the flavors follow the color. We decanted this about 30 minutes before serving, but due to its hardiness it should have been opened about 2 hours sooner.  

Domaine Weinbach, 2005 Riesling Cuvee Theo, Alsace
Louis Latour, 1996 Corton-Charlemagne, Burgundy
Flowers, 2003 Perennial, Sonoma Valley
Antinori, 1999 Guado al Tasso, Tuscany
Grant Burge, 2002 Rhone Blend, Barossa Valley
Stony Hill, 2000 Late Harvest Semillon, Santa Cruz

When I am in DC and dining with four other wine lovers it can get pretty intense. Unfortunately, I arrived late and missed the two bottles of vintage Champagne. Dinner was at Vidalia. When a spectacular Weinbach isn’t the best white wine of the night things are really good. The big hit of the evening was the Latour which was decanted 30 minutes before serving, yet it was still improving in the glass. I was advised to save some until after I had some of the Flowers, one of my favorite red blends, and I was startled that this Chardonnay tasted even better after the red. What a treat to have mature wine, but this one could age for many more years. The Flowers, which is mostly Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, was soft and terrific. The Guadeo al Tasso was new to me, but it had rich flavors and was powerful with mostly Cabernet Sauvignon. The Burge was as bold as most of their wines are and the final wine of the evening was a Semillon. Sweet and balanced, this Stony Hill was the perfect end to a wine lovers dinner.  

Taittinger, Brut Champagne La Francaise
Villa Matilda, 2006 Falanghina, Falerno del Massico
Prunotto, 2003 Barbaresco, Piedmont DOCG

These were tasted with a fantastic dinner at Tosca in DC, a new restaurant to me to which I will be returning again soon. When a restaurant offers Champagne by the glass you know you are off to a good start. The Falanghina was from a producer that is new to me and it was clean and minerally with light fruit. Of course, the Barbaresco wasn’t similarly light, it was rich and powerful and was a great match with my Braised Lamb Shank. 

Gentic, 2006 Robula, Cephalonia, Greece
Massaya, 2004 Silver Blend, Bekaa Valley, Lebanon
Mandilaria/Mavrotegang, 2005 Argyros at Lantis, Nemea, Greece
Chateau Ksara, 2004 Muscatel, Bekaa Valley

The Zaytinya Restaurant is one of Jose Andres’ newer restaurants in DC. The Sunday tapas brunch is in many ways similar to the brunch at Café Atlantico, but the food and wines are from Greece, Lebanon, Turkey and Israel. The Robula was probably the best Greek wine I’ve ever had. It was a crisp wine with different flavors that made a good starter. The Massaya was a Rhone blend with a small amount of Cabernet Sauvignon added and had dark yet subtle flavors. The Mandelaria was made with the Aghiorghitiko grape which produces a dark red wine and was a very good finishing wine with our tapas. The Lebanese dessert wine was a Muscat with 25% Gewurztraminer and a very fine end to my DC weekend visit with my son.

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February 08

Weingut Max Ferd. Richter, 2002 Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Kabinett, Qualitatswein mit Pradikat, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer
Yes, the name is long but the German wine labels tell us almost everything we need to know about the wine. Herr Dr. Richter has visited Winston-Salem on several occasions, and it was during one of his visits I acquired this wine. Since the Richter family has been making wine for over 250 years in the Mosel, we shouldn't be surprised that they make outstanding wines. This is a lightly sweet wine with an acidic backbone that has aided the ageing process to make this 5-year old wine a delight. Note this has only 9% alcohol.

Hartford, 2003 Zinfandel, Russian River $33.
I was first introduced to the wines of Hartford at the Hilton Head Wine Competition about 5 years ago. After judging a terrific Pinot Noir, I sought out the bottle to see what it was and to have another taste. I have also had their Chardonnay which is also at a very high level. This Zin which is over 4-years old has bold flavors yet the ageing has softened them from what they must have been on release. The fruit is very apparent and offers a well-balanced wine.

Stags' Leap Winery, 2004 Merlot, Napa Valley
I had this wine at Noble's Grill in Winston-Salem and always look forward to opening a bottle from this producer who makes big, rich wines. This wine is from what I call the "other Stags' Leap" since the more famous one is the Stag's Leap Wine Cellars which won the 1st  place for Cabernet Sauvignon in the famous 1976 Paris tasting against Bordeaux's best. Later this year there will be two movies released on the Paris tasting. These two wineries have had lawsuits over the use of the name for about a decade and recently settled in an agreement to use different apostrophe placement in their names. The wine was a bit on the harsh side until I tried it with my lamb dish and then the combination was perfect. Merlot is still a great wine variety, but you can't get any value from the inexpensive ones.

Kinkead Ridge, 2005 Cabernet Franc, Ohio River Valley
Wine from Ohio? Yes, in fact Ohio produces about twice as much wine as North Carolina and was once the state that produced the most wine in our country. This wine illustrates that our country is making great progress in its efforts to produce good quality wine. It was a very fruity wine with good balance and it complemented a sautéed chicken breast because of the lightness of the Cab.

Louis Latour, 2003 Aloxe-Corton Les Chaillots, 1er Cru
I often wonder if I'm losing my sense of smell or if the wines aren't offering as much aroma as in the past. Well, this wine tells me it isn't my nose. It has a floral nose that is attention getting every time I lifted the glass. It was soft and gentle and worked perfectly with the veal dish I prepared for my lady on Valentine's Day.

Luna, 2005 Pinot Grigio, Napa Valley
Tasted at the Meridan Restaurant in Winston-Salem, this is one of my favorite wines and wine producers. Please don't confuse Luna with Luna di Luna as they are not the same. The Pinot Grigio is crisp, acidic and excellent with a wide variety of foods.

King, 2006 Pinot Gris, Oregon
This is a really good wine, but the restaurant where I tasted it, Frankie Bones in Hilton Head, has no idea that excessively chilled white wine has no taste. I tried one other white wine by the glass and it, too, was served overly chilled.

Bouchard Pere & Fils, 2003 Beaune, Clos de la Mousse
I tasted this wine at the Red Fish Restaurant in Hilton Head. It was slightly musty when first uncorked, but with 5 to 10 minutes in the glass it opened up to have a terrific aroma with rich flavors. This was a terrific value at $45 from the wine shop attached to the restaurant. It went perfectly with the Sea Bass which was also outstanding.

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January 08

Mondavi, 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley $20.
Probably the best Napa Cab made by the Mondavi firm in at least 5 years. The price is a special deal currently available, but it is doubtful if it will hold long. The wine is a terrific Cab value with rich fruit flavors and well-balanced, best after about one year more of bottle-aging. 

Westbend Vineyards, 1995 Cabernet Sauvignon, Yadkin Valley
When this wine was made there were only 8 wineries in all of NC and today there are 72 with 23 in the Yadkin Valley appellation. The grape vines at Westbend were planted in the 70s and 80s so the fruit came from well-aged vines and the wine was made by NC’s premiere winemaker Steve Shepard. It needed about 30 minutes of breathing in my large glasses to open up and it showed very good fruit after 12 years of aging. The wine was purchased at the winery in February, 2003 then stored in my cellar. 

Yellow Tail, 2005 Shiraz Reserve, Australia $11.
The term reserve has no definition in America or Australia. This reserve wine represents 50,000 cases out of a total of 8.1 million cases imported to this country. Is this what we consider a true reserve? Well, the Wine Spectator must consider it a great wine since it named it the 72nd best wine of 2007 and rated it 90 points. When I tasted it I found little to no fruit, little taste on the palate and no finish. The body was lacking and it had little or no balance. Who do you trust for wine evaluations? 

Tablas Creek Vineyards, 2003 Esprit de Beaucastel Blanc, Paso Robles
A blend of 68% Roussanne, 27% Grenache Blanc and 5% Viognier this Paso Robles wine has truly outstanding flavors and richness. At four years old this is just reaching its maturity. See October, 2007 for notes on the Esprit de Beaucastel Rouge. 

Prager, 2005 Grüner Veltliner, Hunter de Berg, Austria
Tasted at the Bleu Restaurant, Prager is considered one of the finest producers in the Wachau Valley and this is an outstanding wine, even though it doesn’t fit the profile of a Grüner. This is a clean, rich and full-flavored wine, but without the usual spices you might expect. If I had been blind tasting I would have guessed it was a superior Chenin Blanc. 

Van Ruiten Vineyards, 2002 Old Vine Zinfandel, Lodi $16.
While “old vine” is not a defined term in America I have been to the Van Ruiten Vineyards and saw the 7-inch thick vines. These vines stand upright without trellis support due to the age of these vines. This is a great Zin for the price and it has the structure of higher priced wines, but does not have the over the top alcohol and tannins which means it is very drinkable at 5 years. 

Windmill, 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon, Lodi $14.
This is another Michael-David wine and it has their quality combined with a modest price. Winston-Salem and the Wine Merchant Gourmet wine shop are the second best market for these wines outside of California. The Cab is a winner with softer tannins which makes it approachable at this young age. 

McDowell, 2006 Viognier, Mendocino $19.
I haven’t seen any McDowell wines in our area in many years, so I was anxious to try this one. As in the past they deliver good quality wines. The Viognier is a full-flavored, rich wine that would be great with a wide variety of foods, but I had it as a wine at a New Year’s party and it was a treat without a meal. 

Las Rocas, 2005 Garnacha Vinas Viejas, Calatyud $20.
In the past several vintages Las Rocas has been making superior wines for the price. This old vine Garnacha has rich flavors with subtle spice. They make a version for about half the price which is also a good value. 

Rosenblum Cellars, 2005 Zinfandel, Paso Robles $18.
You will find frequent notes on the wines from Rosenblum because they are always outstanding at their price point. The Paso Robles Zin is no exception. Full Zin flavors bring great pleasure in the glass. I had this with my home-made spaghetti sauce and it made a perfect match because of the subtle acidity in the wine.

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