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July 08 |
Dog Point, 2005 Pinot Noir, Marlborough
Maremma Toscana, 2001 Marsiliana IGT Tuscany
Tasted at the Sampan Restaurant in Winston-Salem. However, don't
look for these outstanding wines on their list since they were brought by
a friend from DC who wanted me to try them. About 4 years ago he
introduced me to the Dog Point, and I have recommended it frequently as
well as added it to the list at the River Birch Lodge. The Marsiliana was
new to me and it is a blend of Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon. This
7-year old wine is soft, supple and has terrific flavors. I've always said
that it's good to have friends who like quality wines. Thanks, Gary.
Paradigm, 1995 Merlot, Napa Valley
When Merlot is good, as this one was, it can't be beat. Today 95%
of the Merlots sold can't stand up to 12 years of ageing, but Paradigm is
a quality producer who has put together a terrific wine with balanced
subtle flavor and the taste of a true Merlot. I emphasize it tastes like
Merlot and not like the usual red wine experience we mostly see today.
Laurel Gray Vineyards, 2006 Chardonnay
Barrel Fermented, Yadkin Valley $l7.
As the very first person to taste Laurel Gray's Chardonnay (Kim
Myers pulled a bottle off the bottling line for me to taste), I have
always been impressed with the quality of this wine. The 2006 is right in
line with the previous vintages with deep, rich flavors and oak flavoring
that is not over the top. This is one of North Carolina's best
Chardonnays.
Rosenblum Cellars, 2005 Petite Sirah
Rhodes Vineyard, Redwood Valley, Mendocino $30
Rosenblum is one of my favorite producers with quality wines at all price
levels. They also believe in terroir
since they bottle at least 25 different designated wines. As I always say,
there is nothing small about Petite Sirah. This bold wine needs decanting
and/or a lot of time in the bottle to relax. The rich flavors will stand
up to any piece of beef around.
Mueller, 2005 Chardonnay, Russian River
Valley
A recent birthday gift, this is a new wine to me, but I will seek out
other bottles. The wine is richer than many that I normally prefer, but
the full, oaky flavor pairs well with medium-flavored dishes. As an
aperitif or with a meal, it is a quality wine to be enjoyed.
Chateau Gruaud-Larose, 1986 St. Julien,
Bordeaux
A Father's Day gift and what a treat! On opening, I found the
aroma to show no trace of mustiness which is normal for a wine of this
age, which has been stored in my cellar since the early 1990s. The flavors
were perfectly right from the beginning, although I re-corked it until
just before dinner, then decanted it. There was some powdery sediment
which presented little problem. The flavors were simply outstanding. This
is everything you want in a classified 20-plus-year old Bordeaux.
Dobbins Creek Vineyards, 2006 Riesling,
Yadkin Valley $l7.
Dobbins just opened its tasting room about two months ago, and
this is one of the four wines from their first harvest. For a first effort
I was very pleased with the aroma, balance and overall flavors. Riesling
has done very well in the Yadkin Valley in the past several years, and I
look forward to tasting future vintages.
Bodegas Victoria, 2004 Dominio de
Langaz, D.O. Cariñena, Spain $25.
This wine is an Eric Solomon import which can be relied on for
quality, unique selections and reasonable pricing. The Cariñena DO is
located in the Aragon region which is between Madrid and Barcelona. The
wine is dense and rich, yet needs time in the decanter. I gave it 40
minutes, but it could use more.
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June 08 |
Chateau de Pez, 1996 Saint-Estephe,
Bordeaux
This Cabernet Sauvignon dominated wine was musty after sitting in
the bottle for a decade and in my cellar for nine years. With only about
40 minutes in the decanter it opened up to be rich with bold flavors like
most Saint-Estephe wines. This shows that for off years and with a
Wine Spectator rating of only 80 you can find some real values when
you look for strong producers who aren't well known. It is only with these
lesser known wines from important regions that you can pay merely $23 for
a long-lived wine.
Hanna, 2003 Sauvignon Blanc,
Russian River Valley, Sonoma
Chris Barnes, the owner of the 6th and Vine Restaurant
in Winston-Salem, has known for years that this is one of my favorite
Sauvignon Blancs. It is, of course, of the California style which is
called grassy. There is very little citrus flavoring, which I prefer, and
the well-rounded flavors and rich tastes make this a consistent winner.
Daedlus, 2006 Pinot Gris,
Willamette Valley
Livio Felluga, 2004 Tocai, Friuli
Tasted at the new wine bar Proof in Washington. The Daedlus is a
new name to me but I hope to find more because it is very well-rounded and
rich. I've had many of Livio's wines before but not the Tocai and this was
lighter than I expect from Livio, but still offered refreshing flavors.
This is a very busy wine bar, and I was by far the oldest one there.
Robert Mondavi Winery, 1999
Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve, Napa Valley
Tasted at the Capitol Grill in Washington on the day that I
received the news of his passing. The wine was on their list and not there
as a tribute to the great man. It was good timing to have an 8-year old
wine, but this one will last for another decade or more. Body, rich
flavors and everything else you would want.
Marco Felluga, 2005 Molamatat,
Tocai and Pinot Blanco, Collio del Fruili
The Dino Restaurant in Washington, which lists over 250 wines,
was the site of this tasting. Like his brother Livio, Marco's wines are
always big and bold and this white fits his profile. With this blend you
would expect a light fruity wine, but not from Marco. Rich and long on the
finish, yet I'm not sure of its longevity.
Delamotte, Brut Champagne
Soutiran, Brut Rose Champagne
Louis Jadot, 2001 Chevalier-Montrachet Les Demoiselles, Burgundy
Inneskillin, 2006 Late Harvest Cabernet Franc, Ontario
All tasted at the Minibar of Café Atlantico in Washington. The
Delamotte Brut was the welcome wine before we sat at the six-seat bar for
our special dinner. With 30 courses we chose our wines to be
food-friendly. The Rose Champagne, which was one of the deepest reds I've
ever seen, worked very well. The Burgundy was just outstanding and the 6
years of age made it a delight with this wide variety of courses. With
dessert we chose the Inniskillin which was lighter than expected, but
flavorful, and it worked with the several dessert courses.
Grgich Hills Cellars, 2006 Fume
Blanc, Napa Valley
Chateau Talbot, 2003 St. Julian, Bordeaux
Tasted at the Raven & Peach in New Jersey. We need to go back to
the classic California producers more often. This Grgich Hills wine was
outstanding. Offered in a half bottle it had incredible body which showed
more legs than most red wines. It is very age worthy and was a delight to
have with crab and brie in puff pastry. It's not often that you can find a
Bordeaux-classified wine at a reasonable price in a restaurant, but this
2003 Talbot was a bargain. From a very good vintage, this is a terrific
wine that offers fruit and structure that we don't see very often. |
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The Mondavi
Dinner
2003 Chardonnay, Carneros
2006 Pinot Noir, Carneros
2005 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley
1992 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve, Napa Valley
1992 Opus one, Napa Valley
I have been saving the older vintages
for a long time in order to open them to celebrate the great man's
life. The day he died I was in DC
and had several 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserves, but I hosted a
dinner in his honor with a few friends the next weekend. All of
these wines were special not just because of the memories of what
Robert has done for American wines, but also for how excellent these
wines were. Of special note was the Pinot Noir which had deep
flavors and light spices. I expected the Reserve to be the best of
the reds, but the Opus was far better. We could have kept it until
he would have been over 100, and it would still have been a great
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May 08 |
Raylen Vineyards, 2006 Category 5
Yadkin Valley $18.
One of the first blended wines in North Carolina, this red wine
consists of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and a small amount
of Syrah. I've tasted every vintage of this wine and have found them all
to be outstanding and a value for the quality. They have a richness that
will pair well with the heaviest of meals. This 2006 should continue to
improve in the bottle for at least 4 to 5 years.
Daniel Vineyards, 2003 St.
Vincent, West Virginia
Yes, West Virginia. A number of years ago as a wine judge we
selected a West Virginia wine as best of show for regional wines. So when
I was driving through the state several years ago I purchased a sampling
of the state's wines and this was the last of those purchases. I assume
that the grape is the St. Vincent although I cannot find any information
on that variety. The wine still had good fruit with a slightly acidic
bite. I found it to be pleasant, but not terribly exciting.
Domaine de la Janasse, 2005 Cotes
du Rhone Villages, Terre d'Argile $27.
This is a new producer to me and I'm impressed. It is an Eric
Solomon/European Selection which is an importer that has proven to be very
dependable with smaller producers. The wine is a blend of 40% Grenache,
40% Syrah and 30% Mourvedre. As rich a Côte du Rhone as you can find. I
have put several bottles away to age, so check my Tasting Notes in the
next year or so for an update. This is an outstanding wine.
Maison Louis Latour, 2005
Santenay, Burgundy $24.
This terrific Pinot Noir from the southern Cote d'Or proves that
you can buy really good Burgundy wines without paying a king's ransom.
Light, fruity and yet with some backbone this is a wine to age for a year
or two while you let its bigger brothers age even longer.
Nyetimber Vineyards, 1996 Brut,
West Sussex, UK
Vintage sparkling wine from the UK? Yes, I purchased this several
years ago while visiting my son in London. I've had several other bottles
of British wine and this was clearly the best. Made in the Traditional
Method it uses the three classic grape varieties that are used in the
Champagne region. Remarkably, after a decade, this wine tasted fresh, with
very small bubbles. We re-corked it and had the last two glasses several
days later, and the wine was still fine. While I may never have this
vintage again I will look for Nyetimber on my next visit to London.
Westbend Vineyards, 2006
Chambourcin, Yadkin Valley
This was a gift from a friend and I could not have been more
pleased. I always associate Chambourcin with Westbend since they were the
first Chambourcin grapes I ever had. This French hybred from the Loire
Valley is one of my picks for the best grape varieties to grow in the
Yadkin Valley. We had this wine with shrimp and the food-friendly nature
of the wine showed off to perfection. Richness is very apparent, but the
flavors are soft enough to be pleasing. This is a fine wine to offer to
newcomers to wine or to your snobby friends who may not even know of it.
Paul Jaboulet Aine, 1998 & 1989
Hermitage, La Chapelle, Rhone Valley
Arguably the best known Northern Rhone wine, this 100% Syrah wine
is always special. But to have two in a month is rare. I brought the ‘98
to the Salem Wine Dinner at Noble's as a special treat and one of the
Cellar class members brought the ‘89 to the class. The 1989, rated 96 by
the Wine Spectator with a recommendation to drink between 2005 and 2020,
was very tight and musty when opened, but with a considerable amount of
air it opened up to be a spectacular wine. It could have been exposed to
air even more than our class permitted. The ‘98 was equally as good with
very rich taste, yet delicate flavors.
De La Guerra, 2005 Chardonnay,
Carneros
It is nice to have birthdays when people know I like special
wines. With a well-prepared grouper, we had this Chardonnay which is a
joint venture between the Hyde Family, the vineyard owner, and the de
Villaine family, of Domaine Romanee Conti. This is a new wine to me but
proved to be an outstanding Burgundian style Chardonnay. With soft oak and
rich flavors this is a wine to watch as future versions arrive on the
market.
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April 08 |
Girard, 2005 Sauvignon Blanc, Napa
Valley $l8.
As one of the best producers in Napa, Girard is best known for
its red wine, but their Sauvignon Blanc is outstanding. With crisp
freshness this makes a great aperitif or can accompany a wide variety of
starter courses.
Chateau des Charmes, 2005 Aligote,
Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ontario
This was a gift from a friend I introduced to Aligote 7 years
ago. This Aligote grape isn't well known, but it is the second white grape
permitted in Burgundy. It is the prescribed white wine to use in Kir, the
French aperitif. Remarkably this tastes very different from the French
version. It is very minerally and has a lot of acidity due to the northern
location of the vineyard. I may not find this wine again but it was very
enjoyable.
Rag Apple Lassie Vineyards, Merlot,
Yadkin Valley $l5.
This non-vintage wine from Boonville, NC has a light body but the
winemaker, Linda King, was able to maintain rich fruit from the start to
the finish. This wine stands up very well against similarly priced
California Merlots. (see next wine)
Beaulieu Vineyards (BV), 2004 Merlot,
California $l0.
I've often commented that the Merlot wines coming from California
that sell for under $20 are not worth buying. This wine proves that I have
been right. Merlot is so over planted in California that these inexpensive
wines show zero varietal character and, frankly, have an unpleasant taste.
Shame on BV, one of the great California wineries, for producing such a
poor wine.
Domaine des Roches Neuves, 2004 Saumur
L'Insolite, Loire Valley $26.
This wine is 100% Chenin Blanc that, in my opinion, is the most
underrated grape varietal. The Loire Valley is the home of Chenin Blanc
and this wine shows off the grape's potential. With rich, crisp flavors it
is overwhelmingly powerful and could be paired with a wide variety of
foods.
Perrin & Fils, 2002 Chareauneuf-du-Pape,
Les Sinards, Rhone Valley
Vintage dates are all important and sometimes we let wines rest in our
cellars too long. That was true for this wine. Chateau de Beaucastel chose
not to produce their wine in 2002 since it was such a poor vintage - Wine
Spectator rated the vintage a 76 - but they used their grapes for this
second label. I have had several bottles of this wine and found them to be
very pleasant and a good value at about $25. However, after 5 years this
wine had lost most of its fruit, and I was disappointed. We need to
monitor our cellars better.
Jarvis, 2006 Chardonnay, Napa Valley
Crocker & Starr, 2002 Cabernet Franc, Napa Valley
Both wines were tasted at the Zebra Restaurant in Charlotte. I
have never had Jarvis before and was very impressed. The young wine showed
terrific roundness and flavor and proved to be one of the
California-styled Chards that I could drink more often. The Crocker &
Starr was also new to me but it was recommended by my son Doug. It was
very rich for a Cab Franc and the 5 years in the bottle must have softened
it some. The rich flavors worked well with a very tender beef tenderloin.
These are two wines worth the effort to find again.
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March 08 |
Cellar Joan Simo, 2003
Les Eres, Vinyes Velles, Priorat DO
A blend of Carignan, Grenache, Cabernet Sauvignon and Picapoll. The
vines average about 85-years old and produce a deeply flavored wine. The
Priorat is one of the hottest regions in Spain and this wine proves that
there is a lot happening here.
Banfi, 2005 Chianti
Classico, Tuscany DOCG
The River Birch Lodge in Winston-Salem makes probably the best lasagna in
Forsyth County, and I added this wine to their list when I was consulting
on its expansion. It is a terrific pairing with the house salad and the
rich lasagna. The flavors are subtle but the light acidity balances with
the tomato sauce.
Westbend Vineyards,
2006 Viognier, Yadkin Valley $l5.
Westbend and their winemaker, Mark Terry, have a lot of experience making
Viognier since they were the first vineyard in North Carolina to plant
vinifera vines. This wine was clean and crisp and one of the better
quality Viognier wines in North Carolina.
Vesevo, 2001 Taurasi,
Campania DOCG
When I got this bottle I was excited thinking that it might be from the
revitalized Pompeii vineyards. However, I’m not certain about that, but
the wine is 100% Aglianico which is one of the varietals planted near the
volcano 2,000 years ago. The wine had a dense color with very rich flavors
and a rustic finish. I think that this wine could age at least 5 more
years.
Pax, 2004 Syrah, Alder
Springs Vineyard, Mendocino County
Vinted, cellared and bottled by Pax Wine Cellars and given to me by a
friend, this is a new wine for me. There is a quote on the label “Wine is
a journey not a destination” which I think is very profound. The wine is
inky dark and the flavors follow the color. We decanted this about 30
minutes before serving, but due to its hardiness it should have been
opened about 2 hours sooner.
Domaine Weinbach, 2005
Riesling Cuvee Theo, Alsace
Louis Latour, 1996 Corton-Charlemagne, Burgundy
Flowers, 2003 Perennial, Sonoma Valley
Antinori, 1999 Guado al Tasso, Tuscany
Grant Burge, 2002 Rhone Blend, Barossa Valley
Stony Hill, 2000 Late Harvest Semillon, Santa Cruz
When I am in DC and dining with four other wine lovers it can get pretty
intense. Unfortunately, I arrived late and missed the two bottles of
vintage Champagne. Dinner was at Vidalia. When a spectacular Weinbach
isn’t the best white wine of the night things are really good. The big hit
of the evening was the Latour which was decanted 30 minutes before
serving, yet it was still improving in the glass. I was advised to save
some until after I had some of the Flowers, one of my favorite red blends,
and I was startled that this Chardonnay tasted even better after the red.
What a treat to have mature wine, but this one could age for many more
years. The Flowers, which is mostly Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, was soft
and terrific. The Guadeo al Tasso was new to me, but it had rich flavors
and was powerful with mostly Cabernet Sauvignon. The Burge was as bold as
most of their wines are and the final wine of the evening was a Semillon.
Sweet and balanced, this Stony Hill was the perfect end to a wine lovers
dinner.
Taittinger, Brut
Champagne La Francaise
Villa Matilda, 2006 Falanghina, Falerno del Massico
Prunotto, 2003 Barbaresco, Piedmont DOCG
These were tasted with a fantastic dinner at Tosca in DC, a new restaurant
to me to which I will be returning again soon. When a restaurant offers
Champagne by the glass you know you are off to a good start. The
Falanghina was from a producer that is new to me and it was clean and
minerally with light fruit. Of course, the Barbaresco wasn’t similarly
light, it was rich and powerful and was a great match with my Braised Lamb
Shank.
Gentic, 2006
Robula, Cephalonia, Greece
Massaya, 2004 Silver Blend, Bekaa Valley, Lebanon
Mandilaria/Mavrotegang, 2005 Argyros at Lantis, Nemea, Greece
Chateau Ksara, 2004 Muscatel, Bekaa Valley
The Zaytinya Restaurant is one of Jose Andres’ newer restaurants in DC.
The Sunday tapas brunch is in many ways similar to the brunch at Café
Atlantico, but the food and wines are from Greece, Lebanon, Turkey and
Israel. The Robula was probably the best Greek wine I’ve ever had. It was
a crisp wine with different flavors that made a good starter. The Massaya
was a Rhone blend with a small amount of Cabernet Sauvignon added and had
dark yet subtle flavors. The Mandelaria was made with the Aghiorghitiko
grape which produces a dark red wine and was a very good finishing wine
with our tapas. The Lebanese dessert wine was a Muscat with 25%
Gewurztraminer and a very fine end to my DC weekend visit with my son.
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February 08 |
Weingut Max Ferd. Richter, 2002
Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Kabinett, Qualitatswein mit Pradikat,
Mosel-Saar-Ruwer
Yes, the name is long but the German wine labels tell us almost
everything we need to know about the wine. Herr Dr. Richter has visited
Winston-Salem on several occasions, and it was during one of his visits I
acquired this wine. Since the Richter family has been making wine for over
250 years in the Mosel, we shouldn't be surprised that they make
outstanding wines. This is a lightly sweet wine with an acidic backbone
that has aided the ageing process to make this 5-year old wine a delight.
Note this has only 9% alcohol.
Hartford, 2003 Zinfandel, Russian River
$33.
I was first introduced to the wines of Hartford at the Hilton
Head Wine Competition about 5 years ago. After judging a terrific Pinot
Noir, I sought out the bottle to see what it was and to have another
taste. I have also had their Chardonnay which is also at a very high
level. This Zin which is over 4-years old has bold flavors yet the ageing
has softened them from what they must have been on release. The fruit is
very apparent and offers a well-balanced wine.
Stags' Leap Winery, 2004 Merlot, Napa
Valley
I had this wine at Noble's Grill in Winston-Salem and always look
forward to opening a bottle from this producer who makes big, rich wines.
This wine is from what I call the "other Stags' Leap" since the more
famous one is the Stag's Leap Wine Cellars which won the
1st
place for Cabernet Sauvignon in the famous 1976 Paris tasting against
Bordeaux's best. Later this year there will be two movies released on the
Paris tasting. These two wineries have had lawsuits over the use of the
name for about a decade and recently settled in an agreement to use
different apostrophe placement in their names. The wine was a bit on the
harsh side until I tried it with my lamb dish and then the combination was
perfect. Merlot is still a great wine variety, but you can't get any value
from the inexpensive ones.
Kinkead Ridge, 2005 Cabernet Franc,
Ohio River Valley
Wine from Ohio? Yes, in fact Ohio produces about twice as much
wine as North Carolina and was once the state that produced the most wine
in our country. This wine illustrates that our country is making great
progress in its efforts to produce good quality wine. It was a very fruity
wine with good balance and it complemented a sautéed chicken breast
because of the lightness of the Cab.
Louis Latour, 2003 Aloxe-Corton Les
Chaillots, 1er Cru
I often wonder if I'm losing my sense of smell or if the wines
aren't offering as much aroma as in the past. Well, this wine tells me it
isn't my nose. It has a floral nose that is attention getting every time I
lifted the glass. It was soft and gentle and worked perfectly with the
veal dish I prepared for my lady on Valentine's Day.
Luna, 2005 Pinot Grigio, Napa Valley
Tasted at the Meridan Restaurant in Winston-Salem, this is one of
my favorite wines and wine producers. Please don't confuse Luna with Luna
di Luna as they are not the same. The Pinot Grigio is crisp, acidic and
excellent with a wide variety of foods.
King, 2006 Pinot Gris, Oregon
This is a really good wine, but the restaurant where I tasted it,
Frankie Bones in Hilton Head, has no idea that excessively chilled
white wine has no taste. I tried one other white wine by the glass and it,
too, was served overly chilled.
Bouchard Pere & Fils, 2003 Beaune, Clos
de la Mousse
I tasted this wine at the Red Fish Restaurant in Hilton Head. It
was slightly musty when first uncorked, but with 5 to 10 minutes in the
glass it opened up to have a terrific aroma with rich flavors. This was a
terrific value at $45 from the wine shop attached to the restaurant. It
went perfectly with the Sea Bass which was also outstanding.
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January 08 |
Mondavi, 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon,
Napa Valley $20.
Probably the best Napa Cab made by the Mondavi firm in at least 5 years.
The price is a special deal currently available, but it is doubtful if it
will hold long. The wine is a terrific Cab value with rich fruit flavors
and well-balanced, best after about one year more of bottle-aging.
Westbend Vineyards, 1995 Cabernet
Sauvignon, Yadkin Valley
When this wine was made there were only 8 wineries in all of NC and today
there are 72 with 23 in the Yadkin Valley appellation. The grape vines at
Westbend were planted in the 70s and 80s so the fruit came from well-aged
vines and the wine was made by NC’s premiere winemaker Steve Shepard. It
needed about 30 minutes of breathing in my large glasses to open up and it
showed very good fruit after 12 years of aging. The wine was purchased at
the winery in February, 2003 then stored in my cellar.
Yellow Tail, 2005 Shiraz Reserve,
Australia $11.
The term reserve has no definition in America or Australia. This reserve
wine represents 50,000 cases out of a total of 8.1 million cases imported
to this country. Is this what we consider a true reserve? Well, the
Wine Spectator must consider it a great wine since it named it the 72nd
best wine of 2007 and rated it 90 points. When I tasted it I found little
to no fruit, little taste on the palate and no finish. The body was
lacking and it had little or no balance. Who do you trust for wine
evaluations?
Tablas Creek Vineyards, 2003 Esprit
de Beaucastel Blanc, Paso Robles
A blend of 68% Roussanne, 27% Grenache Blanc and 5% Viognier this Paso
Robles wine has truly outstanding flavors and richness. At four years old
this is just reaching its maturity. See October, 2007 for notes on the
Esprit de Beaucastel Rouge.
Prager, 2005 Grüner Veltliner,
Hunter de Berg, Austria
Tasted at the Bleu Restaurant, Prager is considered one of the finest
producers in the Wachau Valley and this is an outstanding wine, even
though it doesn’t fit the profile of a Grüner. This is a clean, rich and
full-flavored wine, but without the usual spices you might expect. If I
had been blind tasting I would have guessed it was a superior Chenin
Blanc.
Van Ruiten Vineyards, 2002 Old Vine
Zinfandel, Lodi $16.
While “old vine” is not a defined term in America I have been to the Van
Ruiten Vineyards and saw the 7-inch thick vines. These vines stand upright
without trellis support due to the age of these vines. This is a great Zin
for the price and it has the structure of higher priced wines, but does
not have the over the top alcohol and tannins which means it is very
drinkable at 5 years.
Windmill, 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon,
Lodi $14.
This is another Michael-David wine and it has their quality combined with
a modest price. Winston-Salem and the Wine Merchant Gourmet wine shop are
the second best market for these wines outside of California. The Cab is a
winner with softer tannins which makes it approachable at this young age.
McDowell, 2006 Viognier, Mendocino
$19.
I haven’t seen any McDowell wines in our area in many years, so I was
anxious to try this one. As in the past they deliver good quality wines.
The Viognier is a full-flavored, rich wine that would be great with a wide
variety of foods, but I had it as a wine at a New Year’s party and it was
a treat without a meal.
Las Rocas, 2005 Garnacha Vinas
Viejas, Calatyud $20.
In the past several vintages Las Rocas has been making superior wines for
the price. This old vine Garnacha has rich flavors with subtle spice. They
make a version for about half the price which is also a good value.
Rosenblum Cellars, 2005 Zinfandel,
Paso Robles $18.
You will find frequent notes on the wines from Rosenblum because they are
always outstanding at their price point. The Paso Robles Zin is no
exception. Full Zin flavors bring great pleasure in the glass. I had this
with my home-made spaghetti sauce and it made a perfect match because of
the subtle acidity in the wine.
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December 07 |
December of each year is the time when the most wine is sold and consumed,
especially sparkling wines. Accordingly, my tasting notes include some
pretty outstanding wines from holiday gatherings.
Simonet-Febvre, Cremant de Bourgogne Pinot Noir $16.
Any French sparkling wine that is not grown in the Champagne region must
be labeled Cremant. This one from Burgundy is a bargain for its price to
quality ratio. The 100% Pinot Noir gives this a rich flavor that is much
fuller than the Blanc de Blancs Chardonnay version.
Stony Hill, 1999 Chardonnay, Napa
As my son Doug says “Stony Hill never disappoints”. I don’t advise holding
on to most California Chardonnays for 8 years, but this is one that ages
well. This tastes like a young wine and would fool any expert as to its
age; it could even be decanted.
Domaine des Baumard, 2003 Quarts de Chaume, Loire Valley
Certainly the best example of just how good the Chenin Blanc wine can be
as a dessert wine and arguably the best late harvest wine of the Loire. It
has subtle elegance with a lingering finish. There is a limited amount in
our area, but not much.
Kistler, 2002 Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley
WOW! There is always a discussion on what wine goes best with the
traditional holiday turkey dinner. This is the one! This huge Pinot Noir
reminds me only of DRC’s that I’ve had. I’ve never had a richer Pinot Noir
from California. Check out my top wines of the year in January I think
this one will make it.
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La
Sirena, 2000 Syrah, Napa Valley
We decanted this one hour before drinking and it could have used more
time. This is a powerful wine, yet with only 13.2% alcohol its power comes
from the fruit. The winemaker Heidi Petterson Barrett is one of the best
in California and this wine shows why.
Chateau Souverain, 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley $16.
This is one of the better large producers in California; they even make a
good Merlot for under $20. The Cab is softer and more approachable, even
when young, and the tannins are modest.
Rockbridge, 2004 Cabernet Franc, DeChiel Reserve, Virginia $18.
Cabernet Franc may be the best red grape to be grown on the east coast.
This Rockbridge from Virginia shows the subtle flavors that can be
achieved. Rockbridge is a small winery just 2 miles off Route 81 and well
worth a visit.
Roland Sander, 1999 Daxheimer Doktor Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese,
Rheinhessen
The computers spell check always yells at me when I enter
Trockenbeerenauslese, but I will continue to drink them because they range
from outstanding to unbelievable. This one was purchased by my son Doug
for under $30, which is the least expensive I’ve seen since the 70’s. Deep
gold color and syrupy body takes you to the rich flavors that only late,
late harvest Riesling can yield.
Raylen Vineyards & Winery, Brut Sparkling Wine, Yadkin Valley $25.
North Carolina wineries continue to expand the production of sparkling
wine which is another sign of their increased sophistication. This is a
blend of 60% Chardonnay, 30% Pinot Noir and 10 % Pinot Meunier. It's a
soft wine because of the Chardonnay dominance, and the tell-tale small
bubbles tell of the high quality of this wine.
Chateau La Nerthe, 1998 Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Southern Rhone Valley
Their vineyard is planted with all 13 of the permitted grape varieties,
however, the blend is not disclosed. A 9-year-old Chateauneuf from one of
the best years in decades is really a treat, but this wine could continue
to age for at least 10 more years. Balance is the word for this wine with
rich flavors, and a complex finish which makes it outstanding.
Louis Latour, 2002 Chassagne-Montrachet, Les Chenevottes 1er Cru,
Cote-d’Or
See our “Special Features” about my Latour tasting. What a joy to taste
one of the great white wines in the world. Soft, subtle flavors, but never
doubt the backbone is there. 2002 was one of Burgundy’s best years for
both whites and reds which is always important when spending more than $50
on a bottle of wine.
Rosenblum Cellars, 2005 Roussanne, Santa Barbara $20.
Santa Barbara is becoming one of my favorite wine regions for producing
fine Rhone-style wines. This Roussanne, which is the best white grape
grown in the Rhone Valley, combines the great value that Rosenblum offers
with dynamic flavors which are the equal of all but the richest food
pairings.
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November 07 |
Domaine Arretxea,
2002 Tannat, Cuvee Haitza, Irouleguy, France
At the Grayhound Restaurant in London I asked my son if he wanted me to
pick out something interesting and I chose this wine. One of the great
things about being in London is the chance to get wines not offered in NC
or even most of the U. S. Irouleguy is a small, 200 hectare, wine
appellation in the very southwest of France, and frankly, I have only had
Tannat from the Madiran region of France and Uruguay. The wine had a deep
red color and was soft but with some backbone. There was good fruit with
only a hint of spice. It went very well with our lamb.
Alión, 2003
Ribera del Duero, Spain $70. (see 5/07)
I bought this at Philglas & Swiggot which is my favorite wine shop in my
son’s London neighborhood. We decanted it 30 minutes before tasting and it
could have had more time in the decanter. This was a very good
accompaniment for the lamb stew that my daughter-in-law prepared. The wine
is supple and rich, yet not overpowering.
Zonin, 2005
Gambellara, Marche, Italy
At the Osteria Antica Bologna, which is my son’s neighborhood Italian
restaurant, we had this unique wine. Zonin is a very large producer of
Italian wines and it owns the Barboursville Vineyard near Charlottesville,
Virginia. The wine had a light flavor which worked well with our shared
appetizer and my veal roll.
Qupé, 2003 Syrah,
Central Coast, California
The Four O Nine is a new London restaurant opened by the former chef at
Chez Bruce. I wanted to show my son the wines of Qupé since I had recently
written an article about them for Triad Living Magazine. The wine
went perfectly with our lamb dish. It was a full, rich wine with deep
flavors of Syrah and a hint of spice. At 34 British Pounds it was a bit
expensive given the conversion at $2 to the Pound.
El Candado, Pedro
Ximenez Sherry, Jerez de la Frontera
After lunch at the Oriel restaurant in London, I had a glass of this PX
and I was in heaven. It was thick and rich, and I can still remember the
taste. It was so good I had a second glass.
Domaine Bernard
de Faix, 2005 Chablis 1er Cru Vallons $30.
This was our starter wine on the last evening in London. Chablis is my
“desert island” white wine and this one was everything a Chablis should be
- rich flavors with the classic mineral finish.
Castello Banfi,
2000 Brunello di Mantalcino, Tuscany
On my last night in London I went to the Italian grocery store and bought
items to prepare dinner for my son and his wife. He decided not to open my
simple Italian red and went to his cellar and pulled out this not so
simple wine. It was as smooth as silk and rich as well. We decanted it for
about forty minutes, but it could have had more time. What a fine send off
to a great trip.
McConnell
Estates, 2004 Tempranillo Wackman Ranch $17.
McConnell is a small producer in the Lodi region of California where
vineyards of only a few hundred acres are called modest. I was surprised
when visiting the tasting room that they offered a Tempranillo since very
little is grown outside of Spain. However, this one was so good I brought
a bottle back. The wine is deep in color with rich flavors, but most
surprisingly it had a spicy aftertaste which the Spanish versions don’t
have.
Charles Bove 2006
Vouvray, Loire Valley
This was a wine I bought for the article I was working on with my son
Doug, and I didn’t include it in the tasting review. I opened it this
month and was surprised at the terrific flavors from the Chenin Blanc
grape. It was slightly sweet but not over-powering. I am not generally a
fan of Vouvrays, but I will check this one out again.
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October 07 |
Childress, 2006 Fine Swine Wine
This wine was made for the Lexington Barbeque Festivals of 2007 and is for
sale only at the winery and the Festival. It’s a wine that was crafted
just to accompany barbeque and is primarily made from Merlot. It has a
slightly sweet taste and, yes, it does match well with Lexington’s
favorite food. Now they need to produce a wine that pairs with Nana
Pudding.
Lalleske, 2005 Clarry’s
Barossa White, Barossa Valley $l5.
Increasingly I have been trying Chenin Blanc since it's a varietal that
makes some great wines. I also am very fond of the Semillon, but I don’t
think I’ve ever seen these two varietals blended before. This is 70%
Semillon and 30% Chenin Blanc with a unique, very satisfying taste is
unique. Leave it to the Australians to keep trying unique blends.
Domaine des Baumard, 2004
Savennieres, Loire Valley $25.
While we don’t see a lot of wines from the Loire Valley in NC, this is one
to search out. The Savennieres are a Chenin Blanc based wine that has very
limited production and the Baumard is one of the finest producers. This
has a bold taste with rich finish. It can stand up to some of the
strongest food pairings and it will age for at least 5 years.
Tablas Creek Vineyard, 2003 Esprit
de Beaucastel, Paso Robles, $32.
This Rhone blend of 50% Mourvedre, 27% Syrah, 16% Grenache and 7% Counoise
is an outstanding, rich red wine. The vines came from the Perrin Family
estate of Chateau de Beaucastel and the California property is managed by
their partner Robert Haas. At four years old this is still a youthful wine
with potential to age at least 5 to 10 more years.
R. H. Phillips Vineyard, 2005 Late
Harvest Viognier, Dunnigan Hills, California $17. (375 ml.)
Phillips is a large producer of wine, but this well-crafted dessert wine
shows that they can make small quantities of rich, flavorful wine.
Viognier is one of the world’s great grapes and as a late harvest wine it
shows subtle sweetness and a richness not often seen.
Talijancich, 10 Year White
Solero, Western Australia
A unique dessert wine blended with 70% Muscadelle, 20% Pedro Ximenes and
10% Verdelho. It has a brilliant red glow and the PX certainly makes it
sherry-like in aroma and taste. Truly an international blend since the
Muscadelle is a Bordeaux grape, the PX is Spanish and the Verdelho
originates in Portugal.
Martinelli, 2005 Pinot Noir,
Russian River
Known mainly for Zinfandel they make small quantities of Pinot Noir.
Martinelli should certainly make more Pinots! This is as smooth and rich
as a Pinot Noir can be and it would pair well with almost anything.
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September 07 |
2003 Kay Brothers, Shiraz Hillside,
Australia $24.
This is one big, rich wine. The bottle label recommends more bottle aging
and decanting one hour prior to tasting. I think it needs more of both to
smooth down. This is going to be really good when I try the next bottle
I’ve cellared for another 2 to 5 years.
2006 Les Champs des Plantes,
Pouilly-Fume, Loire Valley $16.
It is a shame that we don’t see more wines from the Loire Valley of France
in our area. This Sauvignon Blanc-based wine has some of the richest fruit
flavors I have had in this varietal and is a great example of the
diversity of styles that this grape can produce.
2005 Catena, Malbec, Mendoz $20.
While Malbec is originally from Bordeaux, it’s rarely planted their any
more, but the vineyards of Argentina have adopted this as their national
grape. Few places can produce a Malbec as flavorful as the Argentineans
and, specifically, Catena! This is a soft, mellow wine that has richness
and finesse.
2005 J, Pinotage, Sonoma Valley
Several years ago I stopped buying the South African Pinotage because they
just seemed to be inferior wines and that country was doing really good
things with better quality grapes. However, I was offered a glass of
Pinotage while visiting the J Winery and was quite surprised to find that
12 acres of this grape was shared by 3 wineries. J’s version, only
available at the winery, offered good quality fruit with a good bit of
spice. There are always pleasant surprises during winery visits.
2005 August Briggs, Pinot Meunier,
Napa
One of the very few wineries that uses this grape for still wine. It is
softer than most Pinot Noirs and was tasted at Mustard’s Grill in Napa
with a grilled salmon. It was so good that I went to the winery and
purchased a bottle. Look for more on how this wine ages in future notes.
2003 Peju, Merlot, Napa
I had this wine at the very special Celadon Restaurant in Napa. It shows
what a quality Merlot can taste like. This one had a generous amount of
pepper with a finish that offered rich and complex flavors.
1981 Sterling, Cabernet Sauvignon,
Napa
I don’t have the price that I paid for this wine, but I’ll bet it was
about $8. in 1985. I decanted the wine for 30 minutes to give it some air
but it was delicate and I didn’t want to push it too much. With most of
the tannin gone, I was left with the essence of wine that was really
outstanding.
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August 07
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2006 King Estate, Pinot Gris, Oregon
$16.
While West Coast wines are relatively
stable from vintage to vintage, I detected a major change in flavors in
the 2005 version. I’m happy to say that this vintage is back to what I
expect from King--Rich flavors with a slightly sweet aftertaste.
2005 Jessie’s Grove Winery, Earth, Zin &
Fire Zinfandel, Lodi $15.
This is a new wine to me, but I will be
having more. It is a big, rich and incredibly peppery wine.
Louis Latour, 2003 Vosne-Romanee,
Burgundy $84.
Remarkably subtle in taste, this wine has
complexity that shows through. These are the soft Pinot Noir flavors that
we seek. This wine will improve for at least 5 years if I can wait that
long to drink the other bottle in my cellar.
7 Heavenly Chards, 2005 Michael-David,
Lodi $17.
This is a follow-up to their 7 Deadly Zins,
and it combines Chardonnay grapes from 7 different vineyards. The
well-rounded mouth feel is the signature of this wine, of which I’ve had
several different vintages. Michael-David also makes the Windmill wines
which are great values.
RayLen, 2005 South Mountain Vineyard
Chardonnay, Yadkin Valley $16.
This is a wine that I’ve had every vintage
of since it was first made in 1995. The only single vineyard-designated
wine currently available from NC producers.
The wines are
grown on 3 acres in Morganton. The rich, complex flavors make this one of
NC’s best white wines.
The Four Graces, Willamette Valley
I ordered a bottle of 2005 Pinot Blanc at
the restaurant in the O. Henry Hotel in Greensboro and was very pleasantly
surprised to find it had a richness that isn’t normally in Pinot Blanc. So
I bought their 2005 Pinot Gris, $16. and the 2005 Pinot Noir, $30. Both
blew me away with their rich flavors and smooth taste.
Perrin, Reserve Cotes du Rhone Blanc,
France $11.
Owned by the Perrin family of Chateau de
Beaucastel fame. It is a blend of Grenache Blanc, Bourboulenc, Marsanne,
Roussane and Viognier. It is a great value and can work with a wide
variety of foods.
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Inama Vin Soave, Soave Classico, Veneto
$14.
A blend of Garanega and Trebbiano, this wine’s color is the giveaway to
the rich flavors. This is the richest Soave I’ve ever tasted.
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Parmesan cheese ageing in Emilia-Romagna, Italy |
July 07
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Rosenblum, 2005 Zinfandel, San Francisco
Bay, California $17.
Rosenblum makes about 20 different Zins; I
think this is one of the best. At this price it is a great value, with a
rich, full flavor and spice that is nicely balanced. Drink over the next 3
to 4 years.
Domaine Carneros, 2001 Sparkling Wine
Brut, Napa Valley $17.
Owned by Taittinger, which produces some of
the best Champagne, this is one of the finest sparkling wines in
California. The flavors offer a balance between the Pinot Noir and
Chardonnay. It is fresh and refreshing
F. X. Pichler, 2005 Gruner Veltliner
Federspiel, Austria $27.
This wine producer is considered one of the
best in Austria (Rudi Pichler, his brother, is also an outstanding
producer). Produced in the Wachau Valley, this still young wine had deep
flavors with a hint of spice. Best after 2008.
Merry Edwards, 2003 Pinot Noir, Russian
River, Sonoma
I selected this wine at Greensboro, NC’s
Revival Grill from their reserve list. My dinner companions gave me “oohs”
and “ahs” after tasting this wine. It was soft yet rich and was an
excellent choice for a dinner where all four of us chose different
entrees.
Shelton Vineyards, 2004 Port, Yadkin
Valley $22. (half bottle)
Made with Cabernet Franc, this port is
rich, flavorful and outstanding with the fruit not overpowered by the 19%
alcohol. Shelton’s 2002 version was picked Best of Show at the
Mid-Atlantic Southeastern Wine Competition; this one might be even better.
No ports were made in 2003 at Shelton due to the wet weather.
Zind Humbrecht, 2004 Gewurztraminer,
Alsace $23.
This was probably the 4th bottle
I’ve had, and it may be the best Gewurztraminer I’ve ever had (perhaps it
might have been a Domaine Weinbach which I had in 2003, but what the
heck). The spice is there and some sweetness, but it is very well
balanced.
Legaris, 2003 Tinta Fina, Ribera del
Duero, Spain
This estate grown Crianza is a
full-flavored, rich wine for a Tempranillo. The finish is long and
satisfying.
Solernera, 2004 Yecla DO, Spain $17.
I love to try new wine regions and new
grape varieties. This wine is a blend of 65% Monastrell, 20% Cabernet
Sauvignon, and 15% Tintorera (the new varietal). This is a rich,
full-flavored wine, but not over the top. Well worth a try at this price.
Elk Cove Vineyard, 2005 Pinot Noir,
Willamette Valley $29.
While anytime is great for Pinot Noir it seems that the lighter foods in
the summer months are just perfect for this varietal. This Oregon wine
shows why the Willamette Valley is a great source for Pinots. There is the
needed richness, but with plenty of finesse.
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June 07
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Talbott, 2004 Sleepy Hollow Chardonnay,
Monterey
I enjoyed this wine at The Prime Rib in
Washington. This is a full flavored, rich Chardonnay, one of the best in
California.
Frog’s Leap, 2004 Merlot, Napa Valley
This wine went well with my prime rib
dinner at The Prime Rib. This is what Merlot should taste like, not the
usual drivel from California
Twomey, 2002 Merlot, Napa Valley
I tasted this wine with friends at a
bring-a-bottle dinner in D.C. WOW! This may be the finest California merlot I’ve ever
had.
F. Jobarn, 2000 Meursault, en la Barre,
Burgundy
I selected this wine at the Raven & Peach
in N. J. This is a milder Meursault than usual, but the pedigree shows
through with subtle elegance.
Melville, 2004 Pinot Noir, Santa Rita
Hills, Santa Barbara
First tasted at a trade tasting, I found
this on the wine list at Doris & Ed’s in N. J. At the tasting it blew me
away, but when I had a whole bottle it was as good as it gets. I said to
the restaurant’s owner, to whom I offered a taste, that it was a
“smelling” wine which means that merely smelling it is wonderful.
Qupé, 2006 Roussanne, Bien Nacido
Hillside Estate, Santa Maria Valley, Santa Barbara $39.
With friends for a dinner in my home, we
enjoyed this one with 8 other Qupe wines (see the other wines reviewed in
the Fall issue of Triad Living at
www.triadlivingmagazine.com.
When you look up Roussanne in a dictionary, you should see a photo of this
bottle. It has richness, complexity yet finesse. It should continue to
improve in the bottle for 6 years at least.
Pierre Sparr, 1996 Pinot Gris, Selection
de Grains Nobles, Alsace
My first Grains Noble and it was terrific.
The sweetness level was very rich with the flavors lingering over our
dessert.
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Paul Jaboulet Aine, 1998 Hermitage, La
Chapelle, Rhone Valley
Arguably this wine is the finest example of
the Syrah grape year in and year out. This has all of the richness you can
handle yet there is the typical European finesse that you expect. This
wine is near its peak now but will continue to be outstanding for several
more years.
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Rhone Valley vineyards in France. |
May 07
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Chateau Langoa Barton, 2002 St. Julien,
France $40.
For this modest price for a Bordeaux, it
was outstanding. I poured this at my wine class. Decanter magazine
selected M. Barton as their person of the year for 2007. It is a great
wine now but will improve over at least 5 more years.
Chateau Talbot, 1986 St. Julien, France
A birthday gift from my older son, this
wine is slightly past its prime but is still a terrific wine, proving that
cellaring wine is important. It needs decanting to handle the sediment,
but drink as soon as decanted.
Lachini Vineyards, 2003 Pinot Noir,
Willamette Valley, Oregon $42.
This is an outstanding example of Oregon
Pinots and why this is one of the best growing areas for this grape. It is
pricy, but the age of the wine showcases the Pinot’s elegance.
Girard, 2003 Artistry, Napa Valley
A birthday gift, along with dinner, from
Judi. This is a true Bordeaux blend with all five grapes represented and a
Bordeaux-like structure--balanced yet with finesse. This wine will
continue to improve for at least 4 more years.
Alion, 1997 Ribera del Duero, Spain
The perfect time to drink this. One of
Spain’s best, it has a backbone yet is soft and subtle.
Las Rocas, 2004 Garnacha, Calatayud,
Spain $9.99
This is a terrific wine, especially at
under $l0. It’s a bargain and, unlike many other Garnacha wines, it is not
overly spicy, but well crafted. I bought a case.
Weingut Max Ferd. Richter, 2004
Veldenzer Elisenberg Riesling Spatlese, Mosel $28.
Dr. Richter and his family have been making
wine in the Mosel for over 250 years; I guess they’ve figured it out by
now. His wines are outstanding. This 2004 is a bit lighter than the 02s
and 01s, but it is still rich, sweet and typical for Mosel Riesling; the
Pradikat shows through.
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