Bruce Heye - The Wine Guy

 

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Wine Tasting Notes

During any given month I taste and/or drink between 70 to 400 wines. These notes are from wines that I think are special and ones for which I have had at least one full glass. Prices are listed only if I acquired the wine at retail in the prior 12 months. Click for a sample of my Wine Tasting Sheet.

 

2008

January February March April May June
July          

2007

May June July August September October
November December        

 

July 08 Dog Point, 2005 Pinot Noir, Marlborough
Maremma Toscana, 2001 Marsiliana IGT Tuscany
Tasted at the Sampan Restaurant in Winston-Salem. However, don't look for these outstanding wines on their list since they were brought by a friend from DC who wanted me to try them. About 4 years ago he introduced me to the Dog Point, and I have recommended it frequently as well as added it to the list at the River Birch Lodge. The Marsiliana was new to me and it is a blend of Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon. This 7-year old wine is soft, supple and has terrific flavors. I've always said that it's good to have friends who like quality wines. Thanks, Gary.

Paradigm, 1995 Merlot, Napa Valley
When Merlot is good, as this one was, it can't be beat. Today 95% of the Merlots sold can't stand up to 12 years of ageing, but Paradigm is a quality producer who has put together a terrific wine with balanced subtle flavor and the taste of a true Merlot. I emphasize it tastes like Merlot and not like the usual red wine experience we mostly see today.

Laurel Gray Vineyards, 2006 Chardonnay Barrel Fermented, Yadkin Valley $l7.
As the very first person to taste Laurel Gray's Chardonnay (Kim Myers pulled a bottle off the bottling line for me to taste), I have always been impressed with the quality of this wine. The 2006 is right in line with the previous vintages with deep, rich flavors and oak flavoring that is not over the top. This is one of North Carolina's best Chardonnays.

Rosenblum Cellars, 2005 Petite Sirah Rhodes Vineyard, Redwood Valley, Mendocino $30
Rosenblum is one of my favorite producers with quality wines at all price levels. They also believe in terroir since they bottle at least 25 different designated wines. As I always say, there is nothing small about Petite Sirah. This bold wine needs decanting and/or a lot of time in the bottle to relax. The rich flavors will stand up to any piece of beef around.

Mueller, 2005 Chardonnay, Russian River Valley
A recent birthday gift, this is a new wine to me, but I will seek out other bottles. The wine is richer than many that I normally prefer, but the full, oaky flavor pairs well with medium-flavored dishes. As an aperitif or with a meal, it is a quality wine to be enjoyed.

Chateau Gruaud-Larose, 1986 St. Julien, Bordeaux
A Father's Day gift and what a treat! On opening, I found the aroma to show no trace of mustiness which is normal for a wine of this age, which has been stored in my cellar since the early 1990s. The flavors were perfectly right from the beginning, although I re-corked it until just before dinner, then decanted it. There was some powdery sediment which presented little problem. The flavors were simply outstanding. This is everything you want in a classified 20-plus-year old Bordeaux.

Dobbins Creek Vineyards, 2006 Riesling, Yadkin Valley $l7.
Dobbins just opened its tasting room about two months ago, and this is one of the four wines from their first harvest. For a first effort I was very pleased with the aroma, balance and overall flavors. Riesling has done very well in the Yadkin Valley in the past several years, and I look forward to tasting future vintages.

Bodegas Victoria, 2004 Dominio de Langaz, D.O. Cariñena, Spain $25.
This wine is an Eric Solomon import which can be relied on for quality, unique selections and reasonable pricing. The Cariñena DO is located in the Aragon region which is between Madrid and Barcelona. The wine is dense and rich, yet needs time in the  decanter. I gave it 40 minutes, but it could use more.

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June 08 Chateau de Pez, 1996 Saint-Estephe, Bordeaux
This Cabernet Sauvignon dominated wine was musty after sitting in the bottle for a decade and in my cellar for nine years. With only about 40 minutes in the decanter it opened up to be rich with bold flavors like most Saint-Estephe wines. This shows that for off years and with a Wine Spectator rating of only 80 you can find some real values when you look for strong producers who aren't well known. It is only with these lesser known wines from important regions that you can pay merely $23 for a long-lived wine.

Hanna, 2003 Sauvignon Blanc, Russian River Valley, Sonoma
Chris Barnes, the owner of the 6th and Vine Restaurant in Winston-Salem, has known for years that this is one of my favorite Sauvignon Blancs. It is, of course, of the California style which is called grassy. There is very little citrus flavoring, which I prefer, and the well-rounded flavors and rich tastes make this a consistent winner.

Daedlus, 2006 Pinot Gris, Willamette Valley
Livio Felluga, 2004 Tocai, Friuli
Tasted at the new wine bar Proof in Washington. The Daedlus is a new name to me but I hope to find more because it is very well-rounded and rich. I've had many of Livio's wines before but not the Tocai and this was lighter than I expect from Livio, but still offered refreshing flavors. This is a very busy wine bar, and I was by far the oldest one there.

Robert Mondavi Winery, 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve, Napa Valley
Tasted at the Capitol Grill in Washington on the day that I received the news of his passing. The wine was on their list and not there as a tribute to the great man. It was good timing to have an 8-year old wine, but this one will last for another decade or more. Body, rich flavors and everything else you would want.

Marco Felluga, 2005 Molamatat, Tocai and Pinot Blanco, Collio del Fruili
The Dino Restaurant in Washington, which lists over 250 wines, was the site of this tasting. Like his brother Livio, Marco's wines are always big and bold and this white fits his profile. With this blend you would expect a light fruity wine, but not from Marco. Rich and long on the finish, yet I'm not sure of its longevity.

Delamotte, Brut Champagne
Soutiran, Brut Rose Champagne
Louis Jadot, 2001 Chevalier-Montrachet Les Demoiselles, Burgundy
Inneskillin, 2006 Late Harvest Cabernet Franc, Ontario
All tasted at the Minibar of Café Atlantico in Washington. The Delamotte Brut was the welcome wine before we sat at the six-seat bar for our special dinner. With 30 courses we chose our wines to be food-friendly. The Rose Champagne, which was one of the deepest reds I've ever seen, worked very well. The Burgundy was just outstanding and the 6 years of age made it a delight with this wide variety of courses. With dessert we chose the Inniskillin which was lighter than expected, but flavorful, and it worked with the several dessert courses.

Grgich Hills Cellars, 2006 Fume Blanc, Napa Valley
Chateau Talbot, 2003 St. Julian, Bordeaux
Tasted at the Raven & Peach in New Jersey. We need to go back to the classic California producers more often. This Grgich Hills wine was outstanding. Offered in a half bottle it had incredible body which showed more legs than most red wines. It is very age worthy and was a delight to have with crab and brie in puff pastry. It's not often that you can find a Bordeaux-classified wine at a reasonable price in a restaurant, but this 2003 Talbot was a bargain. From a very good vintage, this is a terrific wine that offers fruit and structure that we don't see very often.

 

The Mondavi Dinner
2003 Chardonnay, Carneros
2006 Pinot Noir, Carneros
2005 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley
1992 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve, Napa Valley
1992 Opus one, Napa Valley

I have been saving the older vintages for a long time in order to open them to celebrate the great man's life. The day he died I was in DC and had several 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserves, but I hosted a dinner in his honor with a few friends the next weekend. All of these wines were special not just because of the memories of what Robert has done for American wines, but also for how excellent these wines were. Of special note was the Pinot Noir which had deep flavors and light spices. I expected the Reserve to be the best of the reds, but the Opus was far better. We could have kept it until he would have been over 100, and it would still have been a great wine.

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May 08 Raylen Vineyards, 2006 Category 5 Yadkin Valley $18.
One of the first blended wines in North Carolina, this red wine consists of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and a small amount of Syrah. I've tasted every vintage of this wine and have found them all to be outstanding and a value for the quality. They have a richness that will pair well with the heaviest of meals. This 2006 should continue to improve in the bottle for at least 4 to 5 years.

Daniel Vineyards, 2003 St. Vincent, West Virginia
Yes, West Virginia. A number of years ago as a wine judge we selected a West Virginia wine as best of show for regional wines. So when I was driving through the state several years ago I purchased a sampling of the state's wines and this was the last of those purchases. I assume that the grape is the St. Vincent although I cannot find any information on that variety. The wine still had good fruit with a slightly acidic bite. I found it to be pleasant, but not terribly exciting.

Domaine de la Janasse, 2005 Cotes du Rhone Villages, Terre d'Argile  $27.
This is a new producer to me and I'm impressed. It is an Eric Solomon/European Selection which is an importer that has proven to be very dependable with smaller producers. The wine is a blend of 40% Grenache, 40% Syrah and 30% Mourvedre. As rich a Côte du Rhone as you can find. I have put several bottles away to age, so check my Tasting Notes in the next year or so for an update. This is an outstanding wine.

Maison Louis Latour, 2005 Santenay, Burgundy  $24.
This terrific Pinot Noir from the southern Cote d'Or proves that you can buy really good Burgundy wines without paying a king's ransom. Light, fruity and yet with some backbone this is a wine to age for a year or two while you let its bigger brothers age even longer.

Nyetimber Vineyards, 1996 Brut, West Sussex, UK
Vintage sparkling wine from the UK? Yes, I purchased this several years ago while visiting my son in London. I've had several other bottles of British wine and this was clearly the best. Made in the Traditional Method it uses the three classic grape varieties that are used in the Champagne region. Remarkably, after a decade, this wine tasted fresh, with very small bubbles. We re-corked it and had the last two glasses several days later, and the wine was still fine. While I may never have this vintage again I will look for Nyetimber on my next visit to London.

Westbend Vineyards, 2006 Chambourcin, Yadkin Valley
This was a gift from a friend and I could not have been more pleased. I always associate Chambourcin with Westbend since they were the first Chambourcin grapes I ever had. This French hybred from the Loire Valley is one of my picks for the best grape varieties to grow in the Yadkin Valley. We had this wine with shrimp and the food-friendly nature of the wine showed off to perfection. Richness is very apparent, but the flavors are soft enough to be pleasing. This is a fine wine to offer to newcomers to wine or to your snobby friends who may not even know of it.

Paul Jaboulet Aine, 1998 & 1989 Hermitage, La Chapelle, Rhone Valley
Arguably the best known Northern Rhone wine, this 100% Syrah wine is always special. But to have two in a month is rare. I brought the ‘98 to the Salem Wine Dinner at Noble's as a special treat and one of the Cellar class members brought the ‘89 to the class. The 1989, rated 96 by the Wine Spectator with a recommendation to drink between 2005 and 2020, was very tight and musty when opened, but with a considerable amount of air it opened up to be a spectacular wine. It could have been exposed to air even more than our class permitted. The ‘98 was equally as good with very rich taste, yet delicate flavors.

De La Guerra, 2005 Chardonnay, Carneros
It is nice to have birthdays when people know I like special wines. With a well-prepared grouper, we had this Chardonnay which is a joint venture between the Hyde Family, the vineyard owner, and the de Villaine family, of Domaine Romanee Conti. This is a new wine to me but proved to be an outstanding Burgundian style Chardonnay. With soft oak and rich flavors this is a wine to watch as future versions arrive on the market.

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April 08 Girard, 2005 Sauvignon Blanc, Napa Valley  $l8.
As one of the best producers in Napa, Girard is best known for its red wine, but their Sauvignon Blanc is outstanding. With crisp freshness this makes a great aperitif or can accompany a wide variety of starter courses.

Chateau des Charmes, 2005 Aligote, Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ontario
This was a gift from a friend I introduced to Aligote 7 years ago. This Aligote grape isn't well known, but it is the second white grape permitted in Burgundy. It is the prescribed white wine to use in Kir, the French aperitif. Remarkably this tastes very different from the French version. It is very minerally and has a lot of acidity due to the northern location of the vineyard. I may not find this wine again but it was very enjoyable.

Rag Apple Lassie Vineyards, Merlot, Yadkin Valley $l5.
This non-vintage wine from Boonville, NC has a light body but the winemaker, Linda King, was able to maintain rich fruit from the start to the finish. This wine stands up very well against similarly priced California Merlots. (see next wine)

Beaulieu Vineyards (BV), 2004 Merlot, California $l0.
I've often commented that the Merlot wines coming from California that sell for under $20 are not worth buying. This wine proves that I have been right. Merlot is so over planted in California that these inexpensive wines show zero varietal character and, frankly, have an unpleasant taste. Shame on BV, one of the great California wineries, for producing such a poor wine.

Domaine des Roches Neuves, 2004 Saumur L'Insolite, Loire Valley $26.
This wine is 100% Chenin Blanc that, in my opinion, is the most underrated grape varietal. The Loire Valley is the home of Chenin Blanc and this wine shows off the grape's potential. With rich, crisp flavors it is overwhelmingly powerful and could be paired with a wide variety of foods.

Perrin & Fils, 2002 Chareauneuf-du-Pape, Les Sinards, Rhone Valley
Vintage dates are all important and sometimes we let wines rest in our cellars too long. That was true for this wine. Chateau de Beaucastel chose not to produce their wine in 2002 since it was such a poor vintage - Wine Spectator rated the vintage a 76 - but they used their grapes for this second label. I have had several bottles of this wine and found them to be very pleasant and a good value at about $25. However, after 5 years this wine had lost most of its fruit, and I was disappointed. We need to monitor our cellars better.

Jarvis, 2006 Chardonnay, Napa Valley
Crocker & Starr, 2002 Cabernet Franc, Napa Valley
Both wines were tasted at the Zebra Restaurant in Charlotte. I have never had Jarvis before and was very impressed. The young wine showed terrific roundness and flavor and proved to be one of the California-styled Chards that I could drink more often. The Crocker & Starr was also new to me but it was recommended by my son Doug. It was very rich for a Cab Franc and the 5 years in the bottle must have softened it some. The rich flavors worked well with a very tender beef tenderloin. These are two wines worth the effort to find again.

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March 08

Cellar Joan Simo, 2003 Les Eres, Vinyes Velles, Priorat DO
A blend of Carignan, Grenache, Cabernet Sauvignon and Picapoll. The vines average about 85-years old and produce a deeply flavored wine. The Priorat is one of the hottest regions in Spain and this wine proves that there is a lot happening here. 

Banfi, 2005 Chianti Classico, Tuscany DOCG
The River Birch Lodge in Winston-Salem makes probably the best lasagna in Forsyth County, and I added this wine to their list when I was consulting on its expansion. It is a terrific pairing with the house salad and the rich lasagna. The flavors are subtle but the light acidity balances with the tomato sauce. 

Westbend Vineyards, 2006 Viognier, Yadkin Valley $l5.
Westbend and their winemaker, Mark Terry, have a lot of experience making Viognier since they were the first vineyard in North Carolina to plant vinifera vines. This wine was clean and crisp and one of the better quality Viognier wines in North Carolina. 

Vesevo, 2001 Taurasi, Campania DOCG
When I got this bottle I was excited thinking that it might be from the revitalized Pompeii vineyards. However, I’m not certain about that, but the wine is 100% Aglianico which is one of the varietals planted near the volcano 2,000 years ago. The wine had a dense color with very rich flavors and a rustic finish. I think that this wine could age at least 5 more years. 

Pax, 2004 Syrah, Alder Springs Vineyard, Mendocino County
Vinted, cellared and bottled by Pax Wine Cellars and given to me by a friend, this is a new wine for me. There is a quote on the label “Wine is a journey not a destination” which I think is very profound. The wine is inky dark and the flavors follow the color. We decanted this about 30 minutes before serving, but due to its hardiness it should have been opened about 2 hours sooner.  

Domaine Weinbach, 2005 Riesling Cuvee Theo, Alsace
Louis Latour, 1996 Corton-Charlemagne, Burgundy
Flowers, 2003 Perennial, Sonoma Valley
Antinori, 1999 Guado al Tasso, Tuscany
Grant Burge, 2002 Rhone Blend, Barossa Valley
Stony Hill, 2000 Late Harvest Semillon, Santa Cruz

When I am in DC and dining with four other wine lovers it can get pretty intense. Unfortunately, I arrived late and missed the two bottles of vintage Champagne. Dinner was at Vidalia. When a spectacular Weinbach isn’t the best white wine of the night things are really good. The big hit of the evening was the Latour which was decanted 30 minutes before serving, yet it was still improving in the glass. I was advised to save some until after I had some of the Flowers, one of my favorite red blends, and I was startled that this Chardonnay tasted even better after the red. What a treat to have mature wine, but this one could age for many more years. The Flowers, which is mostly Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, was soft and terrific. The Guadeo al Tasso was new to me, but it had rich flavors and was powerful with mostly Cabernet Sauvignon. The Burge was as bold as most of their wines are and the final wine of the evening was a Semillon. Sweet and balanced, this Stony Hill was the perfect end to a wine lovers dinner.  

Taittinger, Brut Champagne La Francaise
Villa Matilda, 2006 Falanghina, Falerno del Massico
Prunotto, 2003 Barbaresco, Piedmont DOCG

These were tasted with a fantastic dinner at Tosca in DC, a new restaurant to me to which I will be returning again soon. When a restaurant offers Champagne by the glass you know you are off to a good start. The Falanghina was from a producer that is new to me and it was clean and minerally with light fruit. Of course, the Barbaresco wasn’t similarly light, it was rich and powerful and was a great match with my Braised Lamb Shank. 

Gentic, 2006 Robula, Cephalonia, Greece
Massaya, 2004 Silver Blend, Bekaa Valley, Lebanon
Mandilaria/Mavrotegang, 2005 Argyros at Lantis, Nemea, Greece
Chateau Ksara, 2004 Muscatel, Bekaa Valley

The Zaytinya Restaurant is one of Jose Andres’ newer restaurants in DC. The Sunday tapas brunch is in many ways similar to the brunch at Café Atlantico, but the food and wines are from Greece, Lebanon, Turkey and Israel. The Robula was probably the best Greek wine I’ve ever had. It was a crisp wine with different flavors that made a good starter. The Massaya was a Rhone blend with a small amount of Cabernet Sauvignon added and had dark yet subtle flavors. The Mandelaria was made with the Aghiorghitiko grape which produces a dark red wine and was a very good finishing wine with our tapas. The Lebanese dessert wine was a Muscat with 25% Gewurztraminer and a very fine end to my DC weekend visit with my son.

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February 08

Weingut Max Ferd. Richter, 2002 Brauneberger Juffer Riesling Kabinett, Qualitatswein mit Pradikat, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer
Yes, the name is long but the German wine labels tell us almost everything we need to know about the wine. Herr Dr. Richter has visited Winston-Salem on several occasions, and it was during one of his visits I acquired this wine. Since the Richter family has been making wine for over 250 years in the Mosel, we shouldn't be surprised that they make outstanding wines. This is a lightly sweet wine with an acidic backbone that has aided the ageing process to make this 5-year old wine a delight. Note this has only 9% alcohol.

Hartford, 2003 Zinfandel, Russian River $33.
I was first introduced to the wines of Hartford at the Hilton Head Wine Competition about 5 years ago. After judging a terrific Pinot Noir, I sought out the bottle to see what it was and to have another taste. I have also had their Chardonnay which is also at a very high level. This Zin which is over 4-years old has bold flavors yet the ageing has softened them from what they must have been on release. The fruit is very apparent and offers a well-balanced wine.

Stags' Leap Winery, 2004 Merlot, Napa Valley
I had this wine at Noble's Grill in Winston-Salem and always look forward to opening a bottle from this producer who makes big, rich wines. This wine is from what I call the "other Stags' Leap" since the more famous one is the Stag's Leap Wine Cellars which won the 1st  place for Cabernet Sauvignon in the famous 1976 Paris tasting against Bordeaux's best. Later this year there will be two movies released on the Paris tasting. These two wineries have had lawsuits over the use of the name for about a decade and recently settled in an agreement to use different apostrophe placement in their names. The wine was a bit on the harsh side until I tried it with my lamb dish and then the combination was perfect. Merlot is still a great wine variety, but you can't get any value from the inexpensive ones.

Kinkead Ridge, 2005 Cabernet Franc, Ohio River Valley
Wine from Ohio? Yes, in fact Ohio produces about twice as much wine as North Carolina and was once the state that produced the most wine in our country. This wine illustrates that our country is making great progress in its efforts to produce good quality wine. It was a very fruity wine with good balance and it complemented a sautéed chicken breast because of the lightness of the Cab.

Louis Latour, 2003 Aloxe-Corton Les Chaillots, 1er Cru
I often wonder if I'm losing my sense of smell or if the wines aren't offering as much aroma as in the past. Well, this wine tells me it isn't my nose. It has a floral nose that is attention getting every time I lifted the glass. It was soft and gentle and worked perfectly with the veal dish I prepared for my lady on Valentine's Day.

Luna, 2005 Pinot Grigio, Napa Valley
Tasted at the Meridan Restaurant in Winston-Salem, this is one of my favorite wines and wine producers. Please don't confuse Luna with Luna di Luna as they are not the same. The Pinot Grigio is crisp, acidic and excellent with a wide variety of foods.

King, 2006 Pinot Gris, Oregon
This is a really good wine, but the restaurant where I tasted it, Frankie Bones in Hilton Head, has no idea that excessively chilled white wine has no taste. I tried one other white wine by the glass and it, too, was served overly chilled.

Bouchard Pere & Fils, 2003 Beaune, Clos de la Mousse
I tasted this wine at the Red Fish Restaurant in Hilton Head. It was slightly musty when first uncorked, but with 5 to 10 minutes in the glass it opened up to have a terrific aroma with rich flavors. This was a terrific value at $45 from the wine shop attached to the restaurant. It went perfectly with the Sea Bass which was also outstanding.

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January 08

Mondavi, 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley $20.
Probably the best Napa Cab made by the Mondavi firm in at least 5 years. The price is a special deal currently available, but it is doubtful if it will hold long. The wine is a terrific Cab value with rich fruit flavors and well-balanced, best after about one year more of bottle-aging. 

Westbend Vineyards, 1995 Cabernet Sauvignon, Yadkin Valley
When this wine was made there were only 8 wineries in all of NC and today there are 72 with 23 in the Yadkin Valley appellation. The grape vines at Westbend were planted in the 70s and 80s so the fruit came from well-aged vines and the wine was made by NC’s premiere winemaker Steve Shepard. It needed about 30 minutes of breathing in my large glasses to open up and it showed very good fruit after 12 years of aging. The wine was purchased at the winery in February, 2003 then stored in my cellar. 

Yellow Tail, 2005 Shiraz Reserve, Australia $11.
The term reserve has no definition in America or Australia. This reserve wine represents 50,000 cases out of a total of 8.1 million cases imported to this country. Is this what we consider a true reserve? Well, the Wine Spectator must consider it a great wine since it named it the 72nd best wine of 2007 and rated it 90 points. When I tasted it I found little to no fruit, little taste on the palate and no finish. The body was lacking and it had little or no balance. Who do you trust for wine evaluations? 

Tablas Creek Vineyards, 2003 Esprit de Beaucastel Blanc, Paso Robles
A blend of 68% Roussanne, 27% Grenache Blanc and 5% Viognier this Paso Robles wine has truly outstanding flavors and richness. At four years old this is just reaching its maturity. See October, 2007 for notes on the Esprit de Beaucastel Rouge. 

Prager, 2005 Grüner Veltliner, Hunter de Berg, Austria
Tasted at the Bleu Restaurant, Prager is considered one of the finest producers in the Wachau Valley and this is an outstanding wine, even though it doesn’t fit the profile of a Grüner. This is a clean, rich and full-flavored wine, but without the usual spices you might expect. If I had been blind tasting I would have guessed it was a superior Chenin Blanc. 

Van Ruiten Vineyards, 2002 Old Vine Zinfandel, Lodi $16.
While “old vine” is not a defined term in America I have been to the Van Ruiten Vineyards and saw the 7-inch thick vines. These vines stand upright without trellis support due to the age of these vines. This is a great Zin for the price and it has the structure of higher priced wines, but does not have the over the top alcohol and tannins which means it is very drinkable at 5 years. 

Windmill, 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon, Lodi $14.
This is another Michael-David wine and it has their quality combined with a modest price. Winston-Salem and the Wine Merchant Gourmet wine shop are the second best market for these wines outside of California. The Cab is a winner with softer tannins which makes it approachable at this young age. 

McDowell, 2006 Viognier, Mendocino $19.
I haven’t seen any McDowell wines in our area in many years, so I was anxious to try this one. As in the past they deliver good quality wines. The Viognier is a full-flavored, rich wine that would be great with a wide variety of foods, but I had it as a wine at a New Year’s party and it was a treat without a meal. 

Las Rocas, 2005 Garnacha Vinas Viejas, Calatyud $20.
In the past several vintages Las Rocas has been making superior wines for the price. This old vine Garnacha has rich flavors with subtle spice. They make a version for about half the price which is also a good value. 

Rosenblum Cellars, 2005 Zinfandel, Paso Robles $18.
You will find frequent notes on the wines from Rosenblum because they are always outstanding at their price point. The Paso Robles Zin is no exception. Full Zin flavors bring great pleasure in the glass. I had this with my home-made spaghetti sauce and it made a perfect match because of the subtle acidity in the wine.

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December 07

December of each year is the time when the most wine is sold and consumed, especially sparkling wines. Accordingly, my tasting notes include some pretty outstanding wines from holiday gatherings.

Simonet-Febvre, Cremant de Bourgogne Pinot Noir  $16.
Any French sparkling wine that is not grown in the Champagne region must be labeled Cremant. This one from Burgundy is a bargain for its price to quality ratio. The 100% Pinot Noir gives this a rich flavor that is much fuller than the Blanc de Blancs Chardonnay version. 

Stony Hill, 1999 Chardonnay, Napa
As my son Doug says “Stony Hill never disappoints”. I don’t advise holding on to most California Chardonnays for 8 years, but this is one that ages well. This tastes like a young wine and would fool any expert as to its age; it could even be decanted. 

Domaine des Baumard, 2003 Quarts de Chaume, Loire Valley
Certainly the best example of just how good the Chenin Blanc wine can be as a dessert wine and arguably the best late harvest wine of the Loire. It has subtle elegance with a lingering finish. There is a limited amount in our area, but not much. 

Kistler, 2002 Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley
WOW! There is always a discussion on what wine goes best with the traditional holiday turkey dinner. This is the one! This huge Pinot Noir reminds me only of DRC’s that I’ve had. I’ve never had a richer Pinot Noir from California. Check out my top wines of the year in January I think this one will make it. 

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La Sirena, 2000 Syrah, Napa Valley
We decanted this one hour before drinking and it could have used more time. This is a powerful wine, yet with only 13.2% alcohol its power comes from the fruit. The winemaker Heidi Petterson Barrett is one of the best in California and this wine shows why. 

Chateau Souverain, 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon, Alexander Valley $16.
This is one of the better large producers in California; they even make a good Merlot for under $20. The Cab is softer and more approachable, even when young, and the tannins are modest.

Rockbridge, 2004 Cabernet Franc, DeChiel Reserve, Virginia  $18.
Cabernet Franc may be the best red grape to be grown on the east coast. This Rockbridge from Virginia shows the subtle flavors that can be achieved. Rockbridge is a small winery just 2 miles off Route 81 and well worth a visit. 

Roland Sander, 1999 Daxheimer Doktor Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese, Rheinhessen
The computers spell check always yells at me when I enter Trockenbeerenauslese, but I will continue to drink them because they range from outstanding to unbelievable. This one was purchased by my son Doug for under $30, which is the least expensive I’ve seen since the 70’s. Deep gold color and syrupy body takes you to the rich flavors that only late, late harvest Riesling can yield.  

Raylen Vineyards & Winery, Brut Sparkling Wine, Yadkin Valley $25.
North Carolina wineries continue to expand the production of sparkling wine which is another sign of their increased sophistication. This is a blend of 60% Chardonnay, 30% Pinot Noir and 10 % Pinot Meunier. It's a soft wine because of the Chardonnay dominance, and the tell-tale small bubbles tell of the high quality of this wine. 

Chateau La Nerthe, 1998 Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Southern Rhone Valley
Their vineyard is planted with all 13 of the permitted grape varieties, however, the blend is not disclosed. A 9-year-old Chateauneuf from one of the best years in decades is really a treat, but this wine could continue to age for at least 10 more years. Balance is the word for this wine with rich flavors, and a complex finish which makes it outstanding. 

Louis Latour, 2002 Chassagne-Montrachet, Les Chenevottes 1er Cru, Cote-d’Or
See our “Special Features” about my Latour tasting. What a joy to taste one of the great white wines in the world. Soft, subtle flavors, but never doubt the backbone is there. 2002 was one of Burgundy’s best years for both whites and reds which is always important when spending more than $50 on a bottle of wine.

Rosenblum Cellars, 2005 Roussanne, Santa Barbara $20.
Santa Barbara is becoming one of my favorite wine regions for producing fine Rhone-style wines. This Roussanne, which is the best white grape grown in the Rhone Valley, combines the great value that Rosenblum offers with dynamic flavors which are the equal of all but the richest food pairings.

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November 07

Domaine Arretxea, 2002 Tannat, Cuvee Haitza, Irouleguy, France
At the Grayhound Restaurant in London I asked my son if he wanted me to pick out something interesting and I chose this wine. One of the great things about being in London is the chance to get wines not offered in NC or even most of the U. S. Irouleguy is a small, 200 hectare, wine appellation in the very southwest of France, and frankly, I have only had Tannat from the Madiran region of France and Uruguay. The wine had a deep red color and was soft but with some backbone. There was good fruit with only a hint of spice. It went very well with our lamb. 

Alión, 2003 Ribera del Duero, Spain $70. (see 5/07)
I bought this at Philglas & Swiggot which is my favorite wine shop in my son’s London neighborhood. We decanted it 30 minutes before tasting and it could have had more time in the decanter. This was a very good accompaniment for the lamb stew that my daughter-in-law prepared. The wine is supple and rich, yet not overpowering. 

Zonin, 2005 Gambellara, Marche, Italy
At the Osteria Antica Bologna, which is my son’s neighborhood Italian restaurant, we had this unique wine. Zonin is a very large producer of Italian wines and it owns the Barboursville Vineyard near Charlottesville, Virginia. The wine had a light flavor which worked well with our shared appetizer and my veal roll. 

Qupé, 2003 Syrah, Central Coast, California
The Four O Nine is a new London restaurant opened by the former chef at Chez Bruce. I wanted to show my son the wines of Qupé since I had recently written an article about them for Triad Living Magazine. The wine went perfectly with our lamb dish. It was a full, rich wine with deep flavors of Syrah and a hint of spice. At 34 British Pounds it was a bit expensive given the conversion at $2 to the Pound. 

El Candado, Pedro Ximenez Sherry, Jerez de la Frontera
After lunch at the Oriel restaurant in London, I had a glass of this PX and I was in heaven. It was thick and rich, and I can still remember the taste. It was so good I had a second glass. 

Domaine Bernard de Faix, 2005 Chablis 1er Cru Vallons $30.
This was our starter wine on the last evening in London. Chablis is my “desert island” white wine and this one was everything a Chablis should be - rich flavors with the classic mineral finish. 

Castello Banfi, 2000 Brunello di Mantalcino, Tuscany
On my last night in London I went to the Italian grocery store and bought items to prepare dinner for my son and his wife. He decided not to open my simple Italian red and went to his cellar and pulled out this not so simple wine. It was as smooth as silk and rich as well. We decanted it for about forty minutes, but it could have had more time. What a fine send off to a great trip. 

McConnell Estates, 2004 Tempranillo Wackman Ranch $17.
McConnell is a small producer in the Lodi region of California where vineyards of only a few hundred acres are called modest. I was surprised when visiting the tasting room that they offered a Tempranillo since very little is grown outside of Spain. However, this one was so good I brought a bottle back. The wine is deep in color with rich flavors, but most surprisingly it had a spicy aftertaste which the Spanish versions don’t have. 

Charles Bove 2006 Vouvray, Loire Valley
This was a wine I bought for the article I was working on with my son Doug, and I didn’t include it in the tasting review. I opened it this month and was surprised at the terrific flavors from the Chenin Blanc grape. It was slightly sweet but not over-powering. I am not generally a fan of Vouvrays, but I will check this one out again.

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October 07

Childress, 2006 Fine Swine Wine
This wine was made for the Lexington Barbeque Festivals of 2007 and is for sale only at the winery and the Festival. It’s a wine that was crafted just to accompany barbeque and is primarily made from Merlot. It has a slightly sweet taste and, yes, it does match well with Lexington’s favorite food. Now they need to produce a wine that pairs with Nana Pudding.

Lalleske, 2005 Clarry’s Barossa White, Barossa Valley $l5.
Increasingly I have been trying Chenin Blanc since it's a varietal that makes some great wines. I also am very fond of the Semillon, but I don’t think I’ve ever seen these two varietals blended before. This is 70% Semillon and 30% Chenin Blanc with a unique, very satisfying taste is unique. Leave it to the Australians to keep trying unique blends.

Domaine des Baumard, 2004 Savennieres, Loire Valley $25.
While we don’t see a lot of wines from the Loire Valley in NC, this is one to search out. The Savennieres are a Chenin Blanc based wine that has very limited production and the Baumard is one of the finest producers. This has a bold taste with rich finish. It can stand up to some of the strongest food pairings and it will age for at least 5 years.

Tablas Creek Vineyard, 2003 Esprit de Beaucastel, Paso Robles, $32.
This Rhone blend of 50% Mourvedre, 27% Syrah, 16% Grenache and 7% Counoise is an outstanding, rich red wine. The vines came from the Perrin Family estate of Chateau de Beaucastel and the California property is managed by their partner Robert Haas. At four years old this is still a youthful wine with potential to age at least 5 to 10 more years.

R. H. Phillips Vineyard, 2005 Late Harvest Viognier, Dunnigan Hills, California $17. (375 ml.)
Phillips is a large producer of wine, but this well-crafted dessert wine shows that they can make small quantities of rich, flavorful wine. Viognier is one of the world’s great grapes and as a late harvest wine it shows subtle sweetness and a richness not often seen.

Talijancich, 10 Year White Solero, Western Australia
A unique dessert wine blended with 70% Muscadelle, 20% Pedro Ximenes and 10% Verdelho. It has a brilliant red glow and the PX certainly makes it sherry-like in aroma and taste. Truly an international blend since the Muscadelle is a Bordeaux grape, the PX is Spanish and the Verdelho originates in Portugal.

Martinelli, 2005 Pinot Noir, Russian River
Known mainly for Zinfandel they make small quantities of Pinot Noir. Martinelli should certainly make more Pinots! This is as smooth and rich as a Pinot Noir can be and it would pair well with almost anything.

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September 07

2003 Kay Brothers, Shiraz Hillside, Australia   $24.
This is one big, rich wine. The bottle label recommends more bottle aging and decanting one hour prior to tasting. I think it needs more of both to smooth down. This is going to be really good when I try the next bottle I’ve cellared for another 2 to 5 years. 

2006 Les Champs des Plantes, Pouilly-Fume, Loire Valley  $16.
It is a shame that we don’t see more wines from the Loire Valley of France in our area. This Sauvignon Blanc-based wine has some of the richest fruit flavors I have had in this varietal and is a great example of the diversity of styles that this grape can produce. 

2005 Catena, Malbec, Mendoz  $20.
While Malbec is originally from Bordeaux, it’s rarely planted their any more, but the vineyards of Argentina have adopted this as their national grape. Few places can produce a Malbec as flavorful as the Argentineans and, specifically, Catena! This is a soft, mellow wine that has richness and finesse. 

2005 J, Pinotage, Sonoma Valley
Several years ago I stopped buying the South African Pinotage because they just seemed to be inferior wines and that country was doing really good things with better quality grapes. However, I was offered a glass of Pinotage while visiting the J Winery and was quite surprised to find that 12 acres of this grape was shared by 3 wineries. J’s version, only available at the winery, offered good quality fruit with a good bit of spice. There are always pleasant surprises during winery visits. 

2005 August Briggs, Pinot Meunier, Napa
One of the very few wineries that uses this grape for still wine. It is softer than most Pinot Noirs and was tasted at Mustard’s Grill in Napa with a grilled salmon. It was so good that I went to the winery and purchased a bottle. Look for more on how this wine ages in future notes. 

2003 Peju, Merlot, Napa
I had this wine at the very special Celadon Restaurant in Napa. It shows what a quality Merlot can taste like. This one had a generous amount of pepper with a finish that offered rich and complex flavors.  

1981 Sterling, Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa
I don’t have the price that I paid for this wine, but I’ll bet it was about $8. in 1985. I decanted the wine for 30 minutes to give it some air but it was delicate and I didn’t want to push it too much. With most of the tannin gone, I was left with the essence of wine that was really outstanding.

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August 07

2006 King Estate, Pinot Gris, Oregon $16.

While West Coast wines are relatively stable from vintage to vintage, I detected a major change in flavors in the 2005 version. I’m happy to say that this vintage is back to what I expect from King--Rich flavors with a slightly sweet aftertaste.

 

2005 Jessie’s Grove Winery, Earth, Zin & Fire Zinfandel, Lodi $15.

This is a new wine to me, but I will be having more. It is a big, rich and incredibly peppery wine.

 

Louis Latour, 2003 Vosne-Romanee, Burgundy $84.

Remarkably subtle in taste, this wine has complexity that shows through. These are the soft Pinot Noir flavors that we seek. This wine will improve for at least 5 years if I can wait that long to drink the other bottle in my cellar.

 

7 Heavenly Chards, 2005 Michael-David, Lodi $17.

This is a follow-up to their 7 Deadly Zins, and it combines Chardonnay grapes from 7 different vineyards. The well-rounded mouth feel is the signature of this wine, of which I’ve had several different vintages. Michael-David also makes the Windmill wines which are great values.

 

RayLen, 2005 South Mountain Vineyard Chardonnay, Yadkin Valley $16.

This is a wine that I’ve had every vintage of since it was first made in 1995. The only single vineyard-designated wine currently available from NC producers. The wines are grown on 3 acres in Morganton. The rich, complex flavors make this one of NC’s best white wines.

 

The Four Graces, Willamette Valley

I ordered a bottle of 2005 Pinot Blanc at the restaurant in the O. Henry Hotel in Greensboro and was very pleasantly surprised to find it had a richness that isn’t normally in Pinot Blanc. So I bought their 2005 Pinot Gris, $16. and the 2005 Pinot Noir, $30. Both blew me away with their rich flavors and smooth taste.

 

Perrin, Reserve Cotes du Rhone Blanc, France $11.

Owned by the Perrin family of Chateau de Beaucastel fame. It is a blend of Grenache Blanc, Bourboulenc, Marsanne, Roussane and Viognier. It is a great value and can work with a wide variety of foods.

 

Inama Vin Soave, Soave Classico, Veneto $14.

A blend of Garanega and Trebbiano, this wine’s color is the giveaway to the rich flavors. This is the richest Soave I’ve ever tasted.

 

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Parmesan cheese ageing in Emilia-Romagna, Italy

July 07

 

Rosenblum, 2005 Zinfandel, San Francisco Bay, California $17.

Rosenblum makes about 20 different Zins; I think this is one of the best. At this price it is a great value, with a rich, full flavor and spice that is nicely balanced. Drink over the next 3 to 4 years.

 

Domaine Carneros, 2001 Sparkling Wine Brut, Napa Valley $17.

Owned by Taittinger, which produces some of the best Champagne, this is one of the finest sparkling wines in California. The flavors offer a balance between the Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. It is fresh and refreshing

 

F. X. Pichler, 2005 Gruner Veltliner Federspiel, Austria $27.

This wine producer is considered one of the best in Austria (Rudi Pichler, his brother, is also an outstanding producer). Produced in the Wachau Valley, this still young wine had deep flavors with a hint of spice. Best after 2008.

 

Merry Edwards, 2003 Pinot Noir, Russian River, Sonoma

I selected this wine at Greensboro, NC’s Revival Grill from their reserve list. My dinner companions gave me “oohs” and “ahs” after tasting this wine. It was soft yet rich and was an excellent choice for a dinner where all four of us chose different entrees.

 

Shelton Vineyards, 2004 Port, Yadkin Valley $22. (half bottle)

Made with Cabernet Franc, this port is rich, flavorful and outstanding with the fruit not overpowered by the 19% alcohol. Shelton’s 2002 version was picked Best of Show at the Mid-Atlantic Southeastern Wine Competition; this one might be even better. No ports were made in 2003 at Shelton due to the wet weather.

 

Zind Humbrecht, 2004 Gewurztraminer, Alsace $23.

This was probably the 4th bottle I’ve had, and it may be the best Gewurztraminer I’ve ever had (perhaps it might have been a Domaine Weinbach which I had in 2003, but what the heck). The spice is there and some sweetness, but it is very well balanced.

 

Legaris, 2003 Tinta Fina, Ribera del Duero, Spain

This estate grown Crianza is a full-flavored, rich wine for a Tempranillo. The finish is long and satisfying.

 

Solernera, 2004 Yecla DO, Spain $17.

I love to try new wine regions and new grape varieties. This wine is a blend of 65% Monastrell, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 15% Tintorera (the new varietal). This is a rich, full-flavored wine, but not over the top. Well worth a try at this price.

 

Elk Cove Vineyard, 2005 Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley $29.

While anytime is great for Pinot Noir it seems that the lighter foods in the summer months are just perfect for this varietal. This Oregon wine shows why the Willamette Valley is a great source for Pinots. There is the needed richness, but with plenty of finesse.

 

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June 07

Talbott, 2004 Sleepy Hollow Chardonnay, Monterey

I enjoyed this wine at The Prime Rib in Washington. This is a full flavored, rich Chardonnay, one of the best in California.

 

Frog’s Leap, 2004 Merlot, Napa Valley

This wine went well with my prime rib dinner at The Prime Rib. This is what Merlot should taste like, not the usual drivel from California

 

Twomey, 2002 Merlot, Napa Valley

I tasted this wine with friends at a bring-a-bottle dinner in D.C. WOW! This may be the finest California merlot I’ve ever had.

 

F. Jobarn, 2000 Meursault, en la Barre, Burgundy

I selected this wine at the Raven & Peach in N. J. This is a milder Meursault than usual, but the pedigree shows through with subtle elegance.

 

Melville, 2004 Pinot Noir, Santa Rita Hills, Santa Barbara

First tasted at a trade tasting, I found this on the wine list at Doris & Ed’s in N. J. At the tasting it blew me away, but when I had a whole bottle it was as good as it gets. I said to the restaurant’s owner, to whom I offered a taste, that it was a “smelling” wine which means that merely smelling it is wonderful.

 

Qupé, 2006 Roussanne, Bien Nacido Hillside Estate, Santa Maria Valley, Santa Barbara  $39.

With friends for a dinner in my home, we enjoyed this one with 8 other Qupe wines (see the other wines reviewed in the Fall issue of Triad Living at www.triadlivingmagazine.com. When you look up Roussanne in a dictionary, you should see a photo of this bottle. It has richness, complexity yet finesse. It should continue to improve in the bottle for 6 years at least.

 

Pierre Sparr, 1996 Pinot Gris, Selection de Grains Nobles, Alsace

My first Grains Noble and it was terrific. The sweetness level was very rich with the flavors lingering over our dessert.

 

Paul Jaboulet Aine, 1998 Hermitage, La Chapelle, Rhone Valley

Arguably this wine is the finest example of the Syrah grape year in and year out. This has all of the richness you can handle yet there is the typical European finesse that you expect. This wine is near its peak now but will continue to be outstanding for several more years.

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Rhone Valley vineyards in France.

May 07

Chateau Langoa Barton, 2002 St. Julien, France $40.

For this modest price for a Bordeaux, it was outstanding. I poured this at my wine class. Decanter magazine selected M. Barton as their person of the year for 2007. It is a great wine now but will improve over at least 5 more years.

 

Chateau Talbot, 1986 St. Julien, France

A birthday gift from my older son, this wine is slightly past its prime but is still a terrific wine, proving that cellaring wine is important. It needs decanting to handle the sediment, but drink as soon as decanted.

 

Lachini Vineyards, 2003 Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Oregon $42.

This is an outstanding example of Oregon Pinots and why this is one of the best growing areas for this grape. It is pricy, but the age of the wine showcases the Pinot’s elegance.

 

Girard, 2003 Artistry, Napa Valley

A birthday gift, along with dinner, from Judi. This is a true Bordeaux blend with all five grapes represented and a Bordeaux-like structure--balanced yet with finesse. This wine will continue to improve for at least 4 more years.

 

Alion, 1997 Ribera del Duero, Spain

The perfect time to drink this. One of Spain’s best, it has a backbone yet is soft and subtle.

 

Las Rocas, 2004 Garnacha, Calatayud, Spain $9.99

This is a terrific wine, especially at under $l0. It’s a bargain and, unlike many other Garnacha wines, it is not overly spicy, but well crafted. I bought a case.

 

Weingut Max Ferd. Richter, 2004 Veldenzer Elisenberg Riesling Spatlese, Mosel $28.

Dr. Richter and his family have been making wine in the Mosel for over 250 years; I guess they’ve figured it out by now. His wines are outstanding. This 2004 is a bit lighter than the 02s and 01s, but it is still rich, sweet and typical for Mosel Riesling; the Pradikat shows through.

 

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